The use of my ANT+ adapter with Zwift. But Bluetooth via the phone worked for 62 miles and several hours today, so I guess that will suffice.
My wife brought a 37" Vizio into the relationship she got in 2008. It still works great. It's now hanging on the wall in the bedroom (and requires a special bracket because it doesn't have the VESA specified mount). We have a FireTV that allows us to stream television to it. It has survived two moves, plus being relocated in the house a few times.
So I'm with the guy in the comic - waiting for it to break could take forever.
Our living room TV and Blu Ray player are from that very short time period where you could get a 3D TV setup that uses passive polarized glasses, not active shutter glasses. (We've only ever watched one movie in 3D on it.) So even that is at least 9-10 years old at this point.
Obviously I'm not big on getting the latest and greatest TV, but if you wait until it's broken, it could be a while, in my experience. I'm generally with the wife on upgrading things, ie after they break, but for some things, that might not be a viable plan (or, the reward is worth it).
I went to Vienna for a conference for work in 2016. When I got back, I turned in my receipts, and the admin assistant helpfully typed up my reimbursement paperwork, carefully converting to USD from Australian dollars.
It was at that moment that I was glad I'd made my own flight and hotel reservations.
Don't worry, I'm sure the Trump administration is gearing up to pin the blame on Obama and Biden. And Harris, for good measure.
"I'm going to remind Fry of his humanity, the way only a woman can."
"You're going to do his laundry?"
Edit - the one that had me literally rolling off the couch because I was laughing so hard was, "That just raises further questions!"
I think his idea is that Mexico and Canada will, in response, do something about the illegal immigrants they're sending to the US.
Yes, it's deranged, but it's also Trump, so what do we expect.
I agree with the concern you're raising, but most of the time I ran into it, I was using bluetooth to a radio that had its own volume control. The phone was just reacting to the volume setting, not listening and knowing it was too loud.
I haven't seen that happen in a long time, though. I saw elsewhere in the thread there was a way to disable it, so I might have done that, but I don't recall seeing it at all on the newer Samsung S24 I got early this year.
To me, I don’t understand why someone would proofread their resume but not their cover letter.
Yeah, I hear that...but you'd be surprised at how often I see perfectly-rendered resumes, and then multiple obvious issues in a cover letter.
The cover letter helps you get the interview - after I make the decision (offer or not), I pretty much forget about the cover letter.
I may have posted this before, but...late last year I realized my Debian server with circa 2009 hardware, with 4 gb of RAM and Core 2 Quad processor, was no longer up to the tasks I wanted it to perform; in particular, running a Home Assistant server. Back in 2018 or so, I added a software Linux RAID5 array with 5 active 3 TB drives and one hot spare, along with a "cold spare" that I've never actually used.
So, early this year, I bought hardware to upgrade my desktop machine, which was still plenty fast for me, and move the guts to my server. This is how my server usually gets upgraded. Upgrade the desktop machine, give it a few days or weeks to make sure it's stable, and then upgrade the server.
I installed the hardware without a problem, booted it up, and everything seemed okay, except that I ...couldn't access the RAID. At first it was like, well, I'm sure it's nothing serious, but then when mdadm could even FIND it, I started to get extremely worried. Fear set in.
Long story short: When I built the RAID, I followed directions that used the entire discs as the RAID, instead of making a partition on the disc and using that partition. The old motherboard didn't care, but the new one saw the bare discs and was like, "Hey, those are messed up, I'll fix the partition table for you!" Turns out, building Linux RAIDs by using the full discs like that is a VERY BAD IDEA for exactly this reason - but there are still guides out there showing that method and not mentioning the risks.
I was panicking. I spent days trying to figure out what to do and nothing was working. I was asking for help on the Linux-RAID list (and most of them were as helpful as they could be). Unfortunately my backups were NOT up to par (something I should have checked before starting), and I was at the point where I was like, well, I've lost x, y, and z.
I had basically given up and was just recreating the RAID using the "create command" then trying to see if I could mount the drive read-only. With 6 drives, there are quite a few possible combinations that could be the right one. If I remember correctly, I was able to figure out which drive was the spare, so I could limit my searches to the other 5, and knowing all 5 were in use, it was a matter of trying different orders. I think I got close one time and ext4 gave me weird read error, so after that I swapped two drives, and hit the right order.
Eventually .... I found it. I found the right combination and could reload it! Everything was there, untouched! As quickly as I could, I copied everything to a 10 TB drive I bought and installed into the desktop system. I saved the command, rebooted, and the same thing happened again - so it was definitely a motherboard problem - but this time I knew how to recreate it, and did so.
Since I now had a backup, I partitioned each drive and rebuilt the array using partitions...and I saved every piece of data I could think of about building the array, outputs of mdadm, outputs of /proc/mdstat, partition IDs, etc. Naturally, having that info likely means I'll never need it.
I was so relieved when I saw that mount command work without error. I spent close to a week worrying about it, and in that moment it was a huge rush.
New setup handles HA and other duties with aplomb and is very reliable, so in the end it was very worth it.
This is less "silly" and more "horrifying". Sorry.
Zwiftinsider isn't run by Zwift - he just reports on them (though he definitely has inside information, and they work with him on various things, like letting him use "bots" to test various functionalities).
That is pretty old. I think there are several approaches now. The one he lists, one using docker (I actually had it running on my desktop Linux machine, but I didn't actually test it), and I think some people got it working under WINE.
Zwift's saving grace is that you can connect most hardware via your phone - trainer, cadence, heart rate monitor, etc. - because it's designed to also run on things like Apple TVs, iPads, and Android phones and tablets, albeit with probably lower graphics settings. So, you don't need to worry about the hardware end of it (ANT+ dongle), which very much simplifies the issue. Which reminds me, my heart rate monitor is ANT+ only, and I'd need a bluetooth-capable one to do this.
(Also, at worst, I could run it on my tablet and hook that up to a monitor, so even if I can't get it running on Linux, I still have options.)
Got that the other day on my gaming computer. Very irritating.
Especially since I bought the computer in 2021 specifically to run the virtual cycling program Zwift. I'm not replacing it just to placate Microsoft. It's more than powerful enough to run Zwift and will be for years. I'm hoping the options for using Zwift on Linux pan out.
Interesting. I'm a hiring manager, and I've seen many cover letters that actually hurt the candidate because they have typographical errors, poor grammar, or are addressed to a different organization entirely. Probably 85% of cover letters I see do no harm; most of the rest hurt the candidate. The way you're describing a cover letter sounds like it would be beneficial, but I don't see ones like that very often. I definitely would appreciate that you took the time to tailor it to us.
My advice for everyone is, if you're going to write a cover letter, proofread it just like the resume. If you're short on time, focus on the resume and skip the cover letter (if you can - they might be required for some applications). I definitely notice a sloppy cover letter, so not having a cover letter will hurt far, far less than a sloppy one.
I wouldn't toss someone's application just because their cover letter had a typographical error in it, especially if the candidate is otherwise well qualified. But, if I'm borderline on whether I want to interview someone, and the cover letter is sloppy, I'm probably going to pass. We're pretty detail-oriented, and a sloppy cover letter makes me worry about the details.
Those are the frustrating issues.
When we first moved to this house (different than the one I mentioned elsewhere in the comments), I had a breaker that would seemingly randomly trip, knocking out power for some lights in the basement and a pond in the back yard. A year or two later we removed the drop ceiling in the basement and discovered a wire that was not properly secured into a metal box...it had moved enough over time that it had worn through the insulation and the hot wire was occasionally touching the metal box, causing the trip. Sigh. Hopefully it's not a situation like that!
Ha ha, joke's on them. Our office doesn't have space for all of us. We downsized to ..gasp.. save money, which is what the federal government is supposed to do. They'd also have to renegotiate the union contract, something they just finished doing, so it's not something they really even can address for several years at least.
But Biden isn't squeaky clean on this either, he mandated some percentage of office space being utilized. Supposedly this was to help local businesses, like the fast food chicken place across the street that has survived without us there for almost 5 years now. (They were renovating our building and had us all move out during the pandemic.)
But there's something wrong with the formula being used to calculate utilization of the building - and in our case, even if every cube was full every day, we still wouldn't meet the requirement, because of how it's calculated. I don't have details, but it apparently includes space people can't occupy - like server rooms and the cafeteria - and there's no way to get an exception.
I'm pretty sure upper management would continue the telework setup if they could (I really think they intended to be primarily remote before the Biden administration put the brakes on it). But higher authorities have said no. Our current telework agreement is that we have to go into the office twice per pay period (two weeks), which isn't too bad, but I'd still prefer not. My return to office is scheduled for February. We're bracing for a lot of people to find other jobs or retire, and it has already begun.
I'm hoping to retire in about 7 years. Maybe this next administration will buy me out. I'd be open to a generous severance package.
Remember when he complained about how many days of vacation Obama took, then took more than that in half as many years?
I need to do this with my gaming computer yet. I run Linux on my other machines (and have for many years), but this one is Windows. I bought the computer in 2021, but it doesn't have the trusted computing module, so I can't upgrade it to Windows 11 even if I wanted to.
Last night I tried to add an SSD that I had from a laptop that died, figuring I'll put a fresh install of Linux on the second SSD and not touch the original drive. Unfortunately, the computer didn't want to boot off the original drive any more - even when I changed the boot priority to the original drive, I still got grub from the new drive. I had to disconnect the new SSD to get the computer to boot Windows on the original drive (I wasn't ready to do the Linux install and might need Windows in the mean time).
I know it's a temporary issue at worst, as the installer will likely pick up that Windows installation and make it an option in grub. But it was a setback I wasn't expecting. I figured I'd put in the drive and have it just idling there until I had time to run the Linux installation.
Eh every vendor goes through security failures, unfortunately.
I mostly have Ubiquiti devices (switch and access points), but I was using the ISP router that had some limitations I didn't like. I have a slightly unusual setup for a home, in that I have a source of backup internet if our primary goes down (primary is FiOS, backup is Starlink - which we usually use only while traveling). So, I wanted a router with two WAN ports, and the only option from Ubiquiti there for a while was the $400 one.
So, I tried a TP-Link router (EAP-605, I think) and it worked okay. The user interface for controlling it wasn't as nice as Ubiquiti's, but it was functional. The router was definitely a lot less expensive than the Ubiquiti one. In the end, Ubiquiti released the UCG Ultra that did what I wanted, and cost far less than $400, so I switched to that and have been happy with it.
I think my wife was mildly amused by it at first (I was playing with X10 automation long before she came into the picture), but quickly started to like it because it meant that we always came home to the lights on, stuff like that.
And there's one button to shut off the outside lights and "evening" lights in the house when we're going to bed.
First, the good news: My friend is essentially okay, aside from some bumps and bruises. His bike took some damage, but likely not catastrophic: From what we could tell, both derailleurs on his bike and the bar tape were damaged; there may be other damage we couldn't identify immediately, such as the handlebars themselves.
We were riding on this road with two lanes, no shoulder, and there's a light at the bottom of a hill, with a right turn lane. The light was green, so our group was cruising at a pretty high pace - probably 25 or 30 mph - in the right lane (not the turn lane, the through lane) and some driver needed to turn right, but couldn't wait a few seconds. So, they went into the LEFT lane, then turned right in front of our group, hit one of our riders, and kept going.
("Must get in front...oh I have to turn here..." Shitty driving habits in general, I'll bet.)
A few other cars stopped, and someone called the police, who took a report and got an ambulance to check out the victim. Hopefully they'll do some investigation and find the guilty party. The cross street leads into a neighborhood with no other exits, so there's a good chance the perpetrator lives there. Also there is a camera at that light, and one person thought to note the exact time it happened, in case the camera does continuously record.
I hope they find the driver. They deserve to pay for all damages and a huge fine.
Our friend commented that his bike was likely worth more than the minivan that hit him, which is almost certainly true, given it was an older model van and his bike is a high end Pinarello. He also noted that none of us stopped his bike computer, which was good for a laugh.
The ride leader's husband was able to come and pick up her, the victim, and another rider that wasn't comfortable continuing after the crash (we were only about halfway through the planned route). The rest of us pedaled on, albeit a bit more subdued for a while.
Hi, all. Finally migrated from Kubuntu to Debian 12 over the weekend. It's working great, as I figured it would, with one exception: The system isn't turning the monitors off after 10 minutes. It's blanking them, but they're clearly still on.
One monitor is on an AMD graphics card, the other is on the motherboard Intel adapter.
Debian 12 with KDE Plasma running on Wayland with sddm login. It previously worked fine on Kubuntu (which I believe was running X11). It's a fresh Debian install on a different drive; I didn't overwrite the Kubuntu installation.
In the Energy Saving settings, I have "Screen energy saving" checked with a delay of 10 minutes. (I have "suspend session" turned off - one, because I don't want the computer to sleep or suspend, and two, because when I woke it up again, the graphics were garbled and I had to reboot.) As I said, it does blank the screens, but they're still clearly on. I want them to go into power save mode.
I've tried running dpkg-reconfigure and selecting sddm, no change. In KDE's background services, I tried turning off KScreen 2, but that didn't help (though I'm not sure if I rebooted after turning it off, now that I think about it).
I found advice somewhere that suggested deleting .config/powermanagementprofilesrc and rebooting; I did that, no change.
I did notice yesterday that the monitors had shut off...after a very long time of being idle. I'm not sure how long, but more than overnight, for certain.
Any advice or suggestions? Unfortunately, searching is difficult, because I get a lot of results where the screen blanks when it shouldn't. I haven't found much for this problem.
I used the same installer on my laptop to do the same migration (also with KDE Plasma and sddm) and it works fine there.
No major question here, just thought you might find this interesting. It's an example of the kind of (off-the-wall) things you can do with HA that aren't immediately obvious. When I was starting out with HA, I enjoyed reading these examples, because it gave me ideas for my own setup. And, I wrote many automations that should really be scripts, so hopefully this will help someone avoid that and recognize the power of scripts early.
At home, my laptop from work sits (closed) on a stand under the monitors. I have a docking station for it, but the docking station doesn't have a power button to start the laptop (the official Dell docking stations have a power button, but other brand of docking stations don't). So, since I got that stand a few weeks ago, I've been pulling the laptop out and opening juuuuuuust enough that I could reach the power button, then closing it and sliding it back into the stand. There had to be a better way that didn't involve buying an expensive Dell docking station.
The docking station power is on a Sonoff S31 outlet (flashed with Tasmota, not that that's important here) that is remotely controllable. Long ago, I set up HA automations that turned on the S31 when the laptop was detected on the network, and shut off the S31 after the laptop dropped off the network at the end of the day (leaving in a time delay so it didn't shut off if there was a momentary network glitch). So, I'd boot the laptop, and a moment later the docking station would kick on and connect the mouse and monitors to it. And the end of the day, I shut down the laptop, and a few minutes later the docking station shuts off automatically.
I recently discovered the Wake on LAN integration. So, after setting that up, I wrote a script that turns on the S31, waits a while*, then triggers the Wake-on-LAN for the laptop...and it boots up! With HA, I can start the boot process while I'm still relaxing in the living room before starting work; in theory I'll go into the office and it'll be ready for me to log in.
Heck, if HA knew for certain it was a workday, it could boot the laptop for me.....hmmm. Maybe something to think about for the future.
*How long? Well, 30 seconds seems to be too short; the laptop doesn't respond to the WoL command after just 30 seconds with power applied. It did work this morning when I waited several minutes to try it again. I just changed the delay to 1 minute and will see how that works tomorrow.
I also added a repeat loop (starting after that 1 minute timer) with three components:
- A condition that looks for the laptop being "Away" on the network. (If it is "Home" on the network, the condition will end the script.)
- If it is, then it tries the WoL command again.
- Then waits 30 seconds and repeat.
The repeat loop counter is set to 3, for a total of 4 attempts to start the laptop. I'll check the traces and see when it starts working, and set the initial delay accordingly, so that in general it shouldn't need the repeat loop.
If people want, I can post (sanitized) YAML. But I do like explaining the process rather than just posting code.
This is not the first time I've ranted about the previous owner's wiring jobs, though I think they were on the other site (and I had a different username there).
His greatest hits include:
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Above a drop ceiling in the basement, a wire that went into a metal box without a strain relief, so it eventually wore through (for whatever reason) and started shorting out. Since it was above the drop ceiling I had no idea why that breaker would occasionally trip, then reset without complaint. Also, there are other things on that circuit, but the offending wire was only live when the light switch in the room was on, so it was harder to diagnose. It wasn't until we demolished the room that we found the problem...black marks on the box and wires and all.
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A duct fan to route heat from the pellet stove into the master bedroom...with the wiring completely enclosed in the ceiling, with no access to the box. Said duct fan has started making noise, so I'm going to have to cut that ceiling open and replace it, and I'll probably install one of those spring-loaded covers so there is access in the future.
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A fascinating wiring job in the shed that is unnecessarily complicated and certainly a violation of the code on how many conductors can be in a box. I'm going to fix that some time this spring. This is actually a REALLY great one, so maybe I'll post it as a comment.
On to today's hilarity. A few weeks ago I noticed the UPS for my computer in the basement had a red light on the back warning of a wiring fault. I never noticed it before, or I did and forgot, and it's not very bright, so you almost have to be looking for it to see it. Well, I got out one of those testers that you plug in, with three lights that diagnose the issue, and it showed no ground. Odd.
I checked the other two outlets on the same wall, the one closer to the panel tested fine, but the one on the other side of the outlet in question also showed an open ground.
Today I dug in to find out what was up. It turns out the ground was cut on both wires in the outlet the computer was using (supply from the previous outlet and the wire to the next outlet). It was not connected to the metal box or the outlet.
WHY WHY WHY? Why did he do this? I can't fathom why you'd do this.
I replaced all three outlets on that wall with new ones and made sure the grounds were connected. Nothing really wrong with the original outlets and covers, but they were old and beige, and I like white.
Years ago I found an outlet in our closet that only had two prongs, no ground. The house was built in 1987, well after three prongs were standard. With some trepidation - what am I going to find here? - I opened it up and found that...there was a good ground there (to my relief) but he apparently just decided to use a two prong outlet. WHY? He had to have gone to special effort to find a two prong outlet to install. (Actually it is theoretically possible that was done by the builders, but everything else in the house is three prongs, and I can't believe it would have passed inspection.)
Hi, all. My wife and I recently got new phones, and it got me thinking again about how notifications work.
Currently I have several automations (maybe 10) that send notifications to my phone, her phone, both, and possibly other devices.
But when we get a new phone, or replace a tablet, etc., I have to update every single one of those automations. And I inevitably forget some or introduce errors.
Is there a better way to do this? For example, it'd be nice if I could abstract the concept of "my phone" out in those automations, then I'd only have to change the device "my phone" in one place, rather than a bunch of places.
Any thoughts on this? Maybe I'm missing a way to do it. Thanks.
Flyers mascot jokes after shipment of Penguins promotional item goes missing
Of course he does.
This is a long one, but I'm done with Shelly. Too bad, I like that they support HA, but the treatment on this last order is outrageous. The good news is I'm only out $24.
On November 25, I placed an order for a H&T and a Plus 1 Mini as part of their sale, and I received a confirmation for the order.
On December 8, I received an email stating they were overwhelmed with orders and it would be some time before filling them. Okay, that's annoying, but I didn't need them right away - but the H&T I did want fairly quickly because I was hoping to replace an unreliable Zigbee sensor.
Then I heard nothing for several weeks, and the order never arrived. Finally, on January 4, I created a ticket in their support system about it.
They completely ignored that, too. I started seeing ads on Facebook for the Plus 1 Minis, one of the things I ordered, which irritated me.
After about two weeks, I made a comment on one of the ads that my order and the ticket were both being ignored. A few days later, on January 24, I got an email from them saying:
> Excuse us for the delayed reply. We are extremely overloaded.
> For unknown reason, the order is not visible in the US admin system. That's why it is not dispatched yet. Maybe there is a bug in the system about this order.
> However, we informed the US team that the order must be dispatched asap. They will dispatch it soon and you will receive an email with your tracking code.
> Please be patient.
> We want to apologize for the delay and for the inconvenience caused.
I've heard nothing more, almost a week later. I just logged into the ticketing system to discover that they CLOSED THE TICKET. So they can't see the order, and they closed the ticket that refers to it. The problem is NOT resolved - there's no tracking number, no estimated ship date, and no products at my door. I'll be surprised if I ever get the stuff at this point. (I checked my spam folder, and it's not in there.)
Terrible service. I will never order from them again.
I can still file a Paypal dispute, apparently until May. I'll give it a few more days, and if I haven't heard anything, I'll do that.
So, let this be a warning to you about ordering from Shelly...it went okay the first time a few years back, but this time has been a disaster.
https://lemmy.world/post/10554910
Running on a Lenovo Yoga Tab 13, Android 13, version 1.0.4 of Boost.
First impressions, anyone?
The change isn't a big deal for me, because I ride Zwift for exercise when I can't ride outside, and the achievements are secondary. But I know, for a lot of people, chasing those badges or next level is huge.
I especially think how they're handling the transition to the new level is interesting. I'm not sure I totally understood it, but I think any amount of XP you have over the new level you're on will be applied to reduce the amount of XP you need to level up, reducing it by 20%. The amount of "extra" XP you start with determines how many levels will get that 20% bonus. At least, that's how I read it.
Despite what I said above, I sometimes feel like I'm sitting on a level forever. It doesn't really bother me, but it's also like, wow, still level 35, eh? And I would like to get the doughnut jersey, so that seemed like forever away. So requiring less XP to level up will be nice.
I think I'm the only subscriber to this community, but I thought I'd post this in the hopes to get some responses...
Hello! I don't have pictures yet, but I finally finished my mixed road/gravel bike and took it for a short ride (in wet conditions) over the weekend, and I wanted to celebrate a bit. Sorry for the long post!
I bought the frame on sale a few months back from Velo Orange, it's their Pass Hunter model. I had been kind of eyeing them up for years, as they're based near me, for this kind of bike. My eventual goal is to tour the GAP and C&O canal trails with it - my road bike, a CAAD12, would not be up to such a tour. I'll also take it with us when we go camping - we were out west for a few weeks last year, and there were a lot more gravel roads than this east coaster is used to.
The groupset is a GRX Di2 2x11 with hydraulic discs. I know some will disagree with the electronic shifting for a touring rig, but I've read all of the arguments on both sides, and it's what I wanted. In hindsight, I wish I'd realized that the VO Pass Hunter frame isn't really Di2 compatible, because there are limited options for fishing the wires through the frame - a restriction that never even occurred to me until after I had everything. But I can live with it.
This is my first build, my first experience (ever) with electronic shifting, and my first experience with disc brakes (aside from a very short test ride years ago), and my first experience with hydraulic brakes. Lots of learning!
The wheels are from Bikesdirect.com - did you know they have decent deals on wheels, too? DT Swiss rims, Shimano hubs, Shimano rotors, 38c tires mounted, rim and tires tubeless ready, but set up with tubes. I got 700s, but I probably should have gone with 650b for the clearance on the rear wheel. Longer term, I'll pick up a set of 650bs with mixed road/gravel tires, and put pure road tires on my 700c wheels.
I had a bike fit on my road bike (a CAAD12) done a few years ago, so I used the results from that as a guideline for this build. In particular, the top tube on the VO is longer than the Cannondale, so I got a shorter stem to compensate.
I did end up getting wider handlebars (46 instead of 44), but the gravel handlebars feel a LOT wider than the road handlebars. Which, for an all day ride, probably isn't a bad thing - more positions.
I want to test it more, but I'm thinking I'll set the handlebars a little higher than my CAAD12's are, relative to the seat height - because, one, they're wider, so my arms are out farther when I'm on the hoods, meaning I'd be leaning down a bit farther, and two, comfy, all-day touring bicycle.
The bike is all black. I'm not very imaginative. It's like, how much more black could it be? None. None more back. I don't usually name my bicycles, but suddenly I want to call this one "Smell the Glove". (The VO paint is actually black with flakes and a chrome logo, it looks pretty cool.)
It's definitely a slow bike with the weight and tires on it now, but that's okay - the point was to build a comfortable, ride-all-day tourer, not a speed demon. It weighs 24 lbs without water bottle cages, bike bags, etc.
After my test ride, I'm even happier with my decision to go Di2. And that's with repeatedly hitting the wrong buttons to shift on the ride (I have no idea why I was doing that, it's essentially the same as the 105 5800 on my CAAD12, but I kept doing it).
Bar tape: I am terrible at wrapping bars. I have no fear of the mechanical or electronic portions of building a bike, but bar tape...I dunno. It's very stressful for me, I think because it's so visible, and I feel like everyone is looking at it and going, LOOK WHAT THAT AMATEUR DID! But, I think I actually did a credible job on this one, for once. Tip for anyone else that suffers the same phobia: Look for extra long tape, it's one less stressor!
Suppliers: Frame came from VO, obviously. I got the Di2 setup off eBay - oddly enough, that seems to be the easiest way to buy a groupset, if you need the whole thing. Bikesdirect.com for the wheels. I went to Biketiresdirect.com for a lot of the parts, and when I couldn't find what I wanted or needed there, I went to Amazon. I ordered a few random parts from other places, too - I think the handlebars came from another bike parts supplier.
Costs: I expected this to cost more than a pre-built bike would, but if I wanted that VO frame, building one was my only option. But now that I think about it, I might have actually saved a little money this way. This bike, the first result on google for "Di2 gravel bike", is $3495 with 2x, and I'm pretty sure I have less than that into my build. And I included pedals and a good saddle that fits me in the cost, neither of which comes with most pre-built bikes.
Plus, I probably put a few better components on than would be stock, like softer bar tape, and Easton stem and seat posts, and so on. And, I got the parts I needed - such as the correct stem length for me - so I'm not replacing parts that came with a pre-built bike, either.
So, while it doesn't feel like it, I probably did actually save some money over a pre-built bike. Of course, I spent hours working on it, and I bought several new tools at the same time - strangely, I never had a bike stand before, so I bought one as part of this build. (I don't count the tools as part of the build costs, as I'll very likely use them again.)
To do yet:
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Ride it and adjust the handlebar height as desired, then eventually cut the steerer tube, again. I did an initial cut to get it in the right ballpark, but there's likely another inch or so that could come off.
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Check the rear brake - it engages a lot lower than the front brake, so it might need to be bled. I adjusted the engagement point, but it's still quite different compared to the front. It doesn't feel spongy, and I can lock up the wheel, it just travels a lot farther back. I'd rather it be more consistent with the front brake.
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Adjust the clipless pedal tension. I'm used to SPD-SL cleats, and I've used SPD before, but I was having a miserable time with these at first, so I loosened the tension. I'll want to crank that back up.
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RIDE IT!
Mistakes I made:
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My biggest was the Di2 wiring thing. The frame was really intended to have cables, so I have bosses for shifters or cable mounts that I'm not using (they're covered with caps that are the same color as the frame, at least). I wonder how hard it is to remove that thing - I had to repair similar downtube bosses on my old aluminum bike, and that just had a metric threaded rod running between the two sides. Maybe cut a rubber plug for the holes...hmmmmmmmmm.
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I bought a second band clamp because I thought the first one was interfering with one of the water bottle cage bolts...but while I was waiting for the new clamp to arrive, I figured it out with the original clamp. Not sure what I was going wrong at first.
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There are a few spots I could switch to shorter Di2 cables, but the necessary length is extremely hard to predict, I've learned, and those cables are not cheap. One that's too long is the one for the rear derailleur, and that one would be very easy to change and could be done whenever I feel like it. The other is the cable from the junction near the bottom bracket to the shifter - I have a 1200 mm cable, but a few cm shorter wouldn't have hurt. But neither one is so long that it's a major problem, either.
Boston Bruins forward Milan Lucic is set to be arraigned Tuesday on a charge of assault and battery against a family member.
Wow.
He's taking an indefinite leave of absence, though it looks like he was already on the IR due to ankle issues.
I use Samba backup and it runs nightly, fortunately.
I tried to update to the latest HA core the other day, and it failed. Reboot and weird things stop working all over the place. The log showed the recorder and a bunch of other things failed to start. When I looked at the command line, I found that files had apparently been corrupted. My configuration.yaml, all 791 lines of it, was gone, in favor of the stock configuration.yaml file.
I restored from the most recent backup before the trouble began, which was taken Saturday morning (I assume the corruption is why it didn't run after that). No dice. Friday's backup got me up and running again, fortunately. I had to re-do a few things I'd changed Friday, but what a relief.
I made the changes again and made a new full backup. I also increased the number of backups to keep from 7 to 10.
Do regular backups, people. Save yourself a lot of headache. I use the Samba option, but there are options to upload to things like cloud storage as well.
My wife picked up this puck at the Hockey Hall of Fame last week. I think there's something odd about Gritty...she disagrees. Not saying what it is so as not to bias you. I'd like to get a ruling from the internet on this, please!
I know no one has subbed to this Airstream community, but I'm posting this anyway. We're currently in Fort Collins, Colorado, and heading to Rock Springs tomorrow!
In light of the issues going on the other site, I thought it would be a good idea to create an Airstream group here.