The touchpads, virtual menus, layers / action sets, and overall control customizability really make the Steam Deck shine. PC Games with complicated keyboard-centric control schemes can be adapted to the Steam Deck so easily.
A handheld without that is going to be a hard sell for me no matter how well it performs. As a secondary device to a Gaming PC with a strong internet connection, cloud gaming makes my Deck handle whatever I can throw at it.
You’ve already got answers about rice so I won’t comment on that.
Once you’ve noted the corroded places, clean it by using 99% isopropyl alcohol and an ESD brush. In lieu of an ESD brush, a regular toothbrush is usually fine but best practice is to adhere to ESD protocols.
The main area you won’t be able to get to is the BGA underneath some of the ICs. To clean under there, the board would need to be put through an ultrasonic cleaner.
I usually give any wet board 24 hours to dry with a fan circulating air over it, flipping the board around the 12 hour mark. Humidity is usually 30-60% where I live.
Both, three rotations after the threads catch.
One or none bears the risk of the connector coming out crooked and bending the pins, causing a potential alignment issue on the next connection and bending them further.
It never seems to be the people who have actually used the mouse complaining about the port location.
A brief 1-2 minute charge nets you hours of use, it’s really not a big deal.
Notice that it’s never people who have the mouse complaining about the port location.
A brief 1-2 minute charge nets you hours of use, it’s really not a big deal.
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After you power the system on, does pressing the capslock key cause the corresponding light on the keyboard to change states?
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Once the system is powered on, does the monitor and its backlight stay on? Or does it fall back to a “no signal” mode?
I’d be looking at a used 2070/Super or 3060/Ti in your situation.
If you’re on Windows, consider that you have a year of support left with Windows 10. You can buy further security updates from Microsoft, from 0patch, or with an “unsupported” Windows 11 upgrade. There’s also Linux if the games you want to play are supported :)
With that in mind, you can consider the alternative of limping along with what you’ve got and saving for the next year to do a more substantial upgrade / overhaul.
Even at the top end (RTX 4090) performance difference between PCI 3.0 and 4.0 is pretty negligible.
I’m sure it’ll vary from person to person since our eyes are all going to be varying distances from the display.
Estimated FOV for the Quest3 is 110 horizontal / 96 vertical so I would start somewhere in that range and tweak it to what feels right for you.
What framerate are you targeting?
I find it highly unusual that your CPU is reaching 100% in TF2 of all games.
Your system also shouldn’t be “unresponsive in general use” with these specifications.
Based on paper specifications alone, I’d be leaning towards the 3060/3070 as the most meaningful upgrade in gaming performance. However, I suspect there may be an issue with your software environment or an undiagnosed hardware issue.
Bit surprised to hear that, they were able to repair a customized / engraved Wave that I’ve had for 14 years.
It saw heavy (ab)use, locking mechanism for the knife blade got stuck/damaged after I used a baton to split wood.
On the bright side, it didn’t happen just before/during your vacation. I have friends who spent their honeymoon with COVID
With Windows 10 support ending in a matter of days, that leaves the latest Microsoft OS as the only real option for gamers right now
Windows 10 support ends in 2025. Linux is a very real option for the majority of games.
Given the idiocy in this article, I wouldn’t be surprised if it didn’t occur to them to delete Windows.old from an external software environment. Ultimately, that’s something you want to keep around for a while because it’s what lets you roll back the upgrade if there turns out to out to be problems.
Might be cozy because of the nostalgia more than anything else, but I’ve been cruising through the Turok remasters
Just create a second focus that’s on a schedule for that time window and disables notifications for the camera app.
Not even just parents though.
It also punishes people who go on vacation for a week, have a power outage, get engrossed by a different game, suffer any kind of longer term medical issue, etc. There are dozens of reasons someone could stop playing for a while.
It’s really a bullying mechanic that forces players to keep playing the game for fear of losing their stuff. People should be coming back because the gameplay is fun, not because of the threat of lost progress.
The mechanic would be much more appropriate if it were tied to actual time signed in to the game. I was looking forward to this game and was already going to wait for more polish anyways, but as long as this mechanic exists in its current state I’m completely turned off of it.
Can’t actually buy MacOS, you have to buy their hardware. For the time being connecting with an Apple Account is still fully optional.
France too
Mainstream supermarkets have adult sized DBZ briefs, there are still little coin-op machines that dispense DBZ figurunies
At least the replacement + tools is only about $70!
Perfect opportunity to do a shell swap too, since it’s more or less the same procedure.
As far as releasing these manuals and making parts available is concerned, we already have these laws going into effect in the US