Seeing as I don't see others mention this, I'm gonna try and see if I'm alone in this.

Some pictures and videos won't show for me. It's not that the files have been removed, because I can download the files, but boost won't show them. Sometimes the pictures will load fine, if I choose the original resolution.

I figured that it was because I had an elderly phone, a OnePlus running Android 13, but now that I'm on Motorola running Android 15 I guess it has other reasons.

Anybody else have this issue?

Here's an example of a video that won't load it's NSFW https://lemmynsfw.com/post/27180424 come to think of it, I guess most of the stuff that fails is NSFW

I'm looking for suggestions for video analysis software for training.

Preferably something that

• can handle multiple camera streams at once.
• can run without internet access or a subscription. (it's for a clubhouse and I don't want to send video of the kids, or other training data, online).
• doesn't require a PhD in robotics to set up.

The solution I imagine is two or more cameras filming an archer. The software shall record the training, and allow the archer to playback multiple synchronized streams simultaneously while adding tracking points and displaying data like angles, distance and speed.

I can find several different solutions. But before putting all our eggs in a single basket with the FOSS solution kinovea or utilus fairplay, I want to hear what others have tried.

Edit: IDK first interaction this post got was getting down voted, I guess that it's relevance to archery was unclear, so I edited the title to mitigate this.

I'm looking for suggestions on fowls.

We have a small flock of chickens, about 10, but we have another run with the capacity for about 20 more birds. We also have a small flock of ducks, a single muscowy lady and some indian runners. The ducks are our counter slug squad, but also provide us with some prime eggs as well.

Anyway, we're considering adding some quail as a pesticide in our ant infested greenhouse, and a few geese as lawnmowers for a very soggy part of the garden.

Besides the utility of the birds, we do expect to eat their eggs and come autumn fill up the freezer.

I think we've diversified quite a bit, but what do you think? Something that we should consider keeping as well?

Edit: removed the artifacts of my initial pre-posting edits

Question:

1. What the heck?
2. Anybody seen this before? Did you manage to solve it? And if so, how?

Situation: During the last part of the draw, a recurve bow clicks occasionally. As in it doesn't happen at every draw. When the click occurs it consistently happens immediately before the actual clicker, causing confusion for the archer, and lost spin wings.

It's not my bow, it belongs to an archer at my club.

Setup: hoyt gmx3 riser, kinetic carbon bamboom #32 limbs, beiter plunger and clicker, and a shibuya ultima arrow rest.

The bow has shot about 15k arrows in the current setup over the last 10 months. Limbs were bought second hand, and has shot considerably more.

Immediately before: The issue arose after aligning the limbs using the horizontal bolts. The bolts were supposedly tightened correctly. Ie I trust the people who did it, as they are way more experienced than me.

Attempted: So far I've tried tightening the counter bolt on the limbs weight adjustment bolt. It was plenty tight. I didn't have a lot of time, so I haven't had time to try anything else. The bow has shot about 100 arrows after my attempt, and it still happened enough to pull the wings off of 3 arrows.

Plan of action:

• I will double check the horizontal adjustment, and the bolts tightness.
• I will have a look at the limb pockets, perhaps put a bit of string wax in them.
• We will try swapping limbs. But I've seen this before and brand new limbs didn't solve it.

I have a suggestion for a rule amendment. It goes like this:

When posting pictures of your targets, post as much info about your setup as reasonably possible, ie distance, target diameter, bow type etc. If you're looking for advice, be as specific about your gear as possible.

Reason for my suggestion is that a lot of the time posters will leave out this info, but still be looking for advice, or to show off I guess, when posting a picture of their target. I mean a spread of 50cm at 18m with a compound bow isn't that impressive - not that there's any reason to discourage the archer. But was that a 15cm spread instead, at 70m, with a bare bow, then that's pretty darn impressive.

I like to give constructive feedback, but I know next to nothing about anything but recurve target archery.

Back on December 24th, I wrote the mod of this community, !innkeeper@lemmy.world, suggesting this rule ammendment. It's been two and a half week and I haven't heard back. I also noticed when writing the mod, that the account haven't posted or commented anywhere in a year. So now I'm trying the community instead. I have no idea what we need to do to actually implement the rule, so I'd thought I'd give democracy a shot in the meantime.

Question: If you have tried a dodgy dual input hotend, what were your experiences?

Background: As with anyone else who have a single extruder, I've been contemplating upgrading to something with a bit more flexibility. But the idea of getting a whole new printer doesn't appeal as much to my wallet, as it does to my mind :-)

Scouring aliexpress for weird filaments with the mrs - you know, normal Saturday-evening-and-the-kids-are-sleeping couple activities - we fell upon a dual input hotend for creality cr10. It looks an awful lot like the hotend we have, and it comes with either 24v or 12v heater. It's only about 15€ so I might just give it a try, but it's pretty stupid when I don't even have a plan for an extra extruder as well. And I don't know how I would go about wiring that part up on my cr6 at the moment.

In search of a dedicated small engine community I come here.

I have an older husqvarna frontrider with a hydrostatic transmission. While checking the transmission oil I noticed that the fan had broken of most of the blades.

Looking at the transmission cover I can see that it has been grazed by the blades, suggesting that the fan has been pulled sideways.

The oil check was part of a small service, that I was doing since I had to replace both belts going to the cutting deck as well as the belt in the deck. Those belts died when the belt tensioner, in middle of the mower, came loose and dangled beneath the mower.

My questions are these:

1. WTF?
2. If the belts have pulled that much in the engine driveshaft, as to do this, what else would you look for before starting the mower again?
3. Given that it's about 10°C outside, would you run the mower without a fully functioning fan?
4. Have I missed something? Any wisdom you wish to impart?

I'm looking for a source of product status ect. Specifically AAE products at the moment, but preferably more universal than that. Does anyone know of a blog or other source, that congregates this info?

Background (rant) for asking:

At present I'm looking for vanes for my target recurve kid. Got told by the gurus at the range/club, that flex fletch ffp 187 was a good choice, so I ordered ffp 187 no-prep. Just to get an email back from the local shop, that ffp 187 no-prep was discontinued. And they suggested AAE wav, gas pro naca 200 performance (or spin wings, but the coaches don't want us to go for spin wings at the present)

OK, fine, I can see that JVD (my local shop's wholesaler) only carries one color of ffp 187 no-prep now. But then another kid at the club was shooting AAE hybrid shield 185, and all of a sudden those are being discontinued as well. So I've tried ordering AAE wav ... to the be told by the same gurus what wav was probably also discontinued. But I can't find any announcements, just dwindling stock at the wholesaler level.

I don't know much about archery, but I know that I don't want to fletch a dozen shafts, just to then learn that once the clicker-side vanes are used up, then we're SOL.

As the title states really. I need to refer to this diverse group of people, who somehow have gotten put in the same box labeled "sexual minorites".

I'm a boring CISHET vanilla white male, so I don't really know. I want to include as many as I can when I refer to "lgbtq+ people". I've been studying various flags, trying to find the one flag I need. But I can't really figure it out.

Is lgbtq+ the preferred term, or what should I use? Is a flag better? I don't want to hurt someone by not including them.

If money wasn't an issue, what ILF riser would you get for olympic recurve?

This is both meant as a thought experiment, but also as me picking your brains as a starting point for picking a new riser for someone.

Personally I like the Wiawis integrated dampeners of the ATF-DX or Meta DX. And the insert in the ATF-DX fitting, so you don't ruin the entire riser if you're stringing it wrong, does have some appeal.

But what do you think? Any Gillo fans here? Anyone want to try convincing the rest of us that formula is a superior fitting, and that we should tie the knot with Hoyt?

I apologize for the links below being vendor specific, but the linked products are the specific products I have used. I have no affiliation with the shop other than they offer to bill my job instead of having me pay upfront and then get the expenses redeemed. (I have tried making this both subscript and super script with respectively ^ and ~, but none works on lemmy)

I seek advice on proceeding with the setup and acquiring an acceptable printing quality.

Background

I have recently "upgraded" a creality cr6 se at work. I installed a spider steel/PEI plate (https://3deksperten.dk/products/spiderflexiplate-double-system-255x245-ex-cr-6-se), a bimetal heatbreak https://3deksperten.dk/products/3dsupreme-titanium-alloy-bi-metal-heatbreak-cr6-se) and a hardened steel nozzle (0.4mm from this kit https://3deksperten.dk/products/creality-3d-3d-printing-up-market-nozzle-kit-8-pcs)

Findings

Testing this new setup I used the PLA spool I had been printing with days before without issue. The new and old nozzles are all 0.4mm.

What I discovered was that I couldn't get any adhesion to the built plate, some spray glue (this exact make and model https://3deksperten.dk/products/printafix-100ml) fixed that. Then layer adhesion was an issue. So I upped the temp to the max for this PLA and increased the extrusion rate. First 10 layers or so were somewhat ok, but the rest delaminated instantly.

I then opened a brand new spool of PLA, thinking that the old spool had moisture issues. Cranked the temp to max, 210°C, added 5°C to the bed and applied a strong shot of spray glue. This time the print actually got done, but the parts where Cura's tree support was supposed to be supporting, the layers seem to come apart. The rest of the print was somewhat ok, though not great.

Current considerations

• Maybe I attempted too much at the same time. I may try swapping the nozzle back and only deal with the plate and heatbreak.
• The heat break may be install wrong. The nozzle was screwed in all the way, loosened a few turns, then the heat break was screwed in all the way. The nozzled was then tightened. No heating was done. I may try giving the heat break a few turns before installing the old nozzle again.
• Should I have heated hotend before tightening the nozzle?

Simply put, our slate countertops are uneven, creating issues in daily activities. I've considered using an angle grinder with a grinding disc, but I'm hesitant. Seeking advice on practical solutions for making installed slate slabs even.

The slabs in question varies in thickness by at least ±6mm, in some spots the extremes are within 80mm of each other.

Looking to maybe upgrade my kid's creality cr6-se, so we can move into the more exotic materials.

It appears that I have two options for an all metal hotend, but I can't find any comparisons. Not besides a reddit post from 2020 stating that the Prima Creator is a knock off.

So have anybody tried one or both and care to speak about the experience?

UPDATE:

Never before have I seen an entire maker community go "WTF are you doing you MANIAC! Just frigging buy it instead". I'm impressed :-) Normally I have to solicit such a strong response, this was pure ignorance.

I don't know whether we'll go forward with the 3d-printing part of this project anymore. If we do, I do hear you on the PETG, and it's not out of the running anymore. I may take the project on in a much smaller scale, on my own dime, so I can still try out some exotic materials (ie not pla).

In response to the cost per wand. I've found mailbox red TPU72d from kungfuflex for about 43USD per kg. I made a mock-up of the wand with 2mm walls, and at 220mm length it comes out to about 54g per wand. That's about 2.5USD - if nothing goes wrong and I don't waste a spool by printing unattended.

I think there's still something to be said about being able to form the wand to fit snug on the specific flashlight. Maybe the solution will be purchasing wand attachments and making an adapter for them.

ORIGINAL POST:

I'm designing a wand attachment for a flashlight. The wand attachment will be about 170-200mm long, slightly cone shaped, and fit securely onto a given flashlight. When attached to the flashlight and the flashlight is turned on, the flashlight will illuminate the wand giving of a red glow.

The purpose of this is to use the wand for directing traffic at night. Don't worry, we're licensed to do so and typically asked by the police to do it.

See the picture for an idea of what I'm trying to explain. Disregard the tape and the fact that it's white PLA. The white PLA is what I had open and the flashlight is not the same as will be used with the final device.

The attachment will be produced in 70-150 copies and handed out to volunteers of my national guard company. The final attachment must therefore be able to take a beating, ie scratches, impacts, temperatures and various rough handling.

I have at my disposal a pool of +10 Cr6-se, one ultimaker s5 and one stratasys uprint se plus.

I'm considering a couple of material choices. TPU or PETG in a couple of the cr6s or PC in ultimaker. The uprint strictly uses some proprietary ABS spools, and all the filament I've got for that is ivory white. A buddy of mine has offered to print a release candidate in flexible tough resin. But I don't think that he has any idea about the scale of the project. So it really narrows down to TPU, PETG or PC. If I'm going to make this rigid I'm going to go for PC, for durability, or TPU for flexibility and durability.

I've found a source for PC in transparent and white and TPU (72d, 95a and 98a) in transparent, red or white.

I like the TPU72d in red, but is it the right material? I can't find anything on the translucency of opaque TPU. In the picture it's just 1 mm of opaque white PLA, but what about 2 or 3 mm of TPU? Should I just drop the illusions of red opaque TPU and print in clear PC and spray a coat of red paint on the inside? Or clear TPU?

WYD?

We had a bit of rain these few days. 110ish mm over the last 14 days, 25 of which decided to check in on us yesterday. So our run got flooded.

Not having the space for a truck load of woodchips, nor the time to spare, I got a couple of 23kg bales of sawdust. BTW .6USD pr kg for sawdust, what's wrong with the world?

The chickens were quite perplexed as to the bale when it arrived, and definitely not sold on it either when I had spread it out, pic in comments. I'm going to see how it works before spreading another one.

Usually I don't have to pump water from this area before November, but I guess that life ain't fair and the world is mean, so we started the pump this morning. Next 5 months (we'll I guess it'll be 6 months if luck be) we'll be pumping about 26m^3 from this area daily.

There's a Danish children's song that starts with something like "The farmer is always busy on his farm" and then lists the chores. I wonder why I that was stuck in my head as I wandered about the hardware store looking for bedding material.

Questions:

• Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?
• Has digikey shipped me faulty units?

Background:

I've gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it's some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought "what the heck, I better".

The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502.

Method:

I'm using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn't deviated for the one cap I've left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.

For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.

Solution: @DJPhil@discuss.tchncs.de has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I've found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M.

Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is not the ordering code you'll want. That would be EKHJ451LIN661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you'd be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!

Original post

I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I've found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332 The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.

In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there's room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn't mention a 660µF variant. I don't know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.

Question: What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven't found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.

For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).

The pic may not be nsfw ... but the words uttered at the time certainly were!

I am the lucky owner of a 20m blackberry hedge. Last years yield was about 15kg and thus year looks to be the same.

But here's the thing, 15kg is far too much to make jam of, so last year I experimented with wine. I got this kit https://brew2bottle.co.uk/products/better-brew-hedgerow-wine-kit-23l and just followed the instructions. And it was a great success, everyone who's tasted it have even been to nice to say it was bad or have actually complimented the wine. But I still have half the wine left and now it's time for 2023s harvest.

I'm still considering wine, jam and some juice but... What would you do with a lot of blackberries?