When my Win10 desktop needs replacement in a year or 2, getting a Linux desktop.
What's stopping you from installing Linux now? I don't think you can just "get" a Linux desktop, though I'd be happy to be wrong.
I feel like we're having two different conversations.
The OP is acting like as soon as people "have the option" to switch to something else, they will, and Windows will be dead. SteamOS, however, has been a thing for a couple years now, and easily configurable Linux distributions for even longer, so saying that Windows is dead 30 minutes after release isn't really wishful thinking, it just... Didn't happen.
Your argument is that SteamOS has potential to upset the gaming OS market, which I'm not at all disagreeing with.
My comments had nothing to do with "what corpos use", I'm talking about Steam's user statistics. Over 90% of steam users are on Windows, and that's with the incredibly popular Steam Deck taken into consideration.
Let it be clear that I'm not at all a Windows fanboy, I fucking hate the OS. I use it because I'm too lazy to set up Linux, and a few games I play are known to not work. Something SteamOS can change, but not something it already has.
Does steam deck not run Steam OS..? What the Deck was meant to do is irrelevant, the OS it comes with and the OS mentioned in the OP in no way shut Windows down
In what world? The steam deck is almost 3 years old, Windows is still on top and it's not even close
There was a viral video from like 2015 or so (I think it was a Vine) where a guy asks a kid, "what's 10 plus 9?" The kid looks up and immediately says "21!" to which the original person replies, "ya stupid".
I don't think it actually has anything to do with the image, just a post ironic shit post.
I think it all depends on the sincerity and scale of the compliment. If someone just offhandedly says that your shoes are cool, it's ok to just say thanks and move on. But if someone makes a specific compliment on something close to you, like pointing out a part of your project they like, it might be more appropriate to talk about choices you made, how it was done etc.
If Bambu were out there suing people for stuff they didn't make, I'd be more in line with calling them thieves. But the work they have used is still freely available to anyone who wants to use it. Similar to how Sovol sells what is essentially a preassembled Voron; I'm an engineer, I wouldn't buy one because I'd rather do it myself. But to the hundreds of thousands of people who wouldn't want to spend a week building a printer, but love the design and concept of the Voron, they now have the option. Everyone with their Voron can continue using it, and everyone who wants to just buy one can.
I mean, look at the computer industry/ hobby. Started off with a bunch of enthusiats building crap in their garage. Computers became important, businesses started taking note, and now when the average person thinks of a home computer, they think "Dell, HP, Apple". But all the other stuff didn't just go away. There's still a huge, thriving community of people who slapped their stuff together and run the jankiest, least proprietary OS possible on them. Nothing's stopping them from doing what they want to do, but now everyone else can do it, too.
Bambu changed everything for the worst and forced everyone to lower expectations and business practices.
I'm sorry, Bambu forced people to LOWER their expectations...? What expectations are you talking about?
Bambu made everyone want a printer that prints insanely fast, with incredible quality and zero hassle. I have a friend who is the least tech savvy person I've ever met, he genuinely barely knows how to use a computer, but his Bambu prints circles around my heavily modified and upgraded Neptune 3.
If your "expectations" are literally just, "it's open source and I can do whatever I want" then yeah a Bambu won't meet those expectations. But that's a far cry from "everyone's" expectations, and I definitely wouldn't say that they "forced" other businesses to follow suite.
Bambu is making printing accessible to non-enthusiasts. Their products aren't always going to align with what old-heads are looking for, but the benefit of knowing what you're doing is that you can decide for yourself not to go that route. Nothing on God's green Earth can stop you from sourcing parts and building a Voron that does exactly what you want, no matter what Bambu does, but now that 3D printing is entering the mainstream, the mainstream needs a way to print, and Bambu is there to fill that gap in the market.
This must feel very scary. I think you should seek help from a psychological professional about your concerns, they may be able to help with some of the things you have listed. As someone else has said, you should definitely remove your phone number from this post.
Post: I damaged my Prusa printer 🙁
People in this community, for some reason: Bambu bad 😠
I would say go ahead and make a separate account if it's here on the fediverse and it's important to you that progress remains trackable and organized. A vast majority of accounts and communities here have very little content. Even if you're posting very infrequently, the community here is small enough that people who are interested will see and remember the previous ones.
A small thing that I think would help mitigate the "abandoned project" look is putting the date in the title of your updates. The post will obviously have a timestamp on it that shows how old the post is (ie "posted 4 weeks ago"), but seeing [December 2024 Update] at the top of a profile feels much more reassuring that something is being worked on, and also makes it easier for anyone scrolling through the account to a. get an idea of how much things are being worked on, and b. navigate through the project history.
If you're talking about an account on the fediverse, I don't think it matters much at this point.
If mean like a typical social media account like an Instagram, or a GitHub page or something, I'd say that when you want people you don't know to look at it and understand what's going on, projects should have their own account.
I have a personal Instagram account that I throw 3d printing, car, and some paint related things on so I can easily show my friends and family stuff that I do, but I also sell DnD minis and have a separate account that I only post minis to that has information about pricing and whatnot.
My current approach to fluid management is probably overkill, but I had a lot of rough experiences when starting out that completely killed a playthrough or two in the oil stage, so I'm kind of scarred.
Valves are deceptive with their throughput limitation and are the reason for one of my playthrough cancellations. In my experience, fluid buildings in satisfactory will very rarely get fluid at a constant rate, the rate will surge and drop as fluid "sloshes" around in the pipes. As such, limiting a factory to only get the fluid/min required will usually result in a starved machine (instead of filling up instantly during the surges, it only gets the limited amount- then the rate drops below the amount during the the low flow points). This makes it not the most intuitive experience to use valves where one might think they're most useful (right before a machine).
I instead use valves to ensure fluid doesn't flow backwards in my pipes (I also feed from underground, with a single MK2 pump at the beginning of the pipe and valves on all the outputs), and temporarily if I've got a huge line of refineries that I want to get running at max efficiency before the pipes have finished filling up.
My refineries are set up in rows of 6 (two 3-refinery blueprints that sit next to each other), each with a small buffer in the middle that is directly connected to the underground pipe. The buffer is really only used during initial startup to ensure there is enough oil for the full system, but it's peace of mind that if I ever somehow wind up with a total power grid failure it isn't gonna take half an hour for everything to fill back up.
Hey, we're currently building in the same area!
I used an impure oil node to run 10 fuel generators, then today finished using a normal and pure node to run 60/min rubber and 480/min plastic, the residue of which is running another 8 generators (and canned fuel for my jetpack).
This is the first playthrough I've done where I seem to have learned the trick to managing fluids. We'll see if I make it past my usual stopping point (aluminum)...
If it were me, would've ended with me happily singing along with my brain, oblivious to the information I failed to retain.
Bro got zero rizz FR and that's on God.
Just because the benchy was designed to be used as a calibration tool doesn't mean people shouldn't be able to do whatever they want with it. If a print a benchy with The Rock's face on it I'm not gonna go to their website and be like "omg it looks different why???" Also the model is a solid 3d model, it isn't presliced, so the only thing a manufacturer could do to make a benchy "look better" on their printer would be to make it visibly different than the original, which... See above.
Like I get what you're saying, standardization is important for tools like this, but if someone wants to calibrate their printer it's not like it's difficult to get the original benchy and run your test. If they were just removing models that are nearly identical but with small tweaks I'd be more likely to agree, but they're removing artwork and gag models that could never be mistaken or passed off as the original.
It'd be like banning children's toys that look like tools because someone might try to build a house with a plastic ruler.
Not a Western AAA studio, lol.
The meme is saying that Western AAA game makers are too lazy to make good games and are upset at other, NON-Western game devs for producing good games and making themselves (the westerners) look bad.
Larian isn't in the group of complainers. The meme isn't putting them in any category.
Aren't the "Western AAA developers" the ones complaining? Not the ones that made the mentioned games?
Something I've noticed when watching my resin printer work is that a lot of time is spent every later lifting the plate well after I hear the model unstick from the FEP.
It's not a huge deal on smaller prints, especially ones that can be printed with "vroom" settings, but on larger models that are being printed at 1-2mm/s lift speed, several hours are spent just waving the model in the air for no reason...
I had the idea of making a test model that is essentially an intentional suction cup in the center of the plate (where FEP stretch is most prominent and required lift distance should be highest). I would print this model multiple times, with slightly lower lift heights each iteration, until it fails to release from the FEP. I'd add a safety margin and set my raise height to that...
Does anyone see any fault in my logic, or know of a better method of achieving what I'm after?
This is one of the characters from Valandar's second Player Character pack. His weapon made me think of mer-people, so I wanted to paint this guy with an aquatic theme. About halfway through I realized the color scheme wasn't going in the direction I wanted, so I abandoned the aquatic theme and just picked colors that I thought would look good together.
After applying the final wash, I felt the model looked too dark and monotone, so I decided now was a good time to give edge highlighting a try, something I've always been too lazy or impatient to try. Holy crap, does a tiny bit of white make a difference! You can see that my blending and edge selection leaves plenty to be desired, but for a first time, I think some parts of his robe look really cool.
As always, here are a few more angles:
If anyone has any advice or pointers for color selection, I'm all ears. For this guy, I started with the color I knew I wanted to make a bulk of the model (blue/ aquamarine), picked a few nearby colors (green and purple) for the secondary bits, then jumped across the color wheel (yellow and gold) for the highlights. I think the model has good contrast, and the colors look ok together, it just doesn't have the look I was going for. I'm sure I'll get a better eye for color selection as I continue to paint, but if there are any places to start looking I'm open to pointers.
I realized that I never posted my complete army of Ice Orcs that I'd posted a WIP a little bit ago.
Here they are! Some of them definitely turned out better than others, but I had a lot of fun painting them up and I'm happy with how they look as a whole. I've only ever painted one other "army" of minis, and I used the same color scheme for all of them, thinking I needed to in order to make them look like a cohesive unit. It worked, but just as they were cohesive, they were boring.
I tried a different approach here, picking out a general list of colors (black, brown, tan, and gray) that fit the theme I was going for. For each orc's armor, I mainly stuck to the selected colors, but threw them on wherever I thought it would look good, not caring if the previous model was brown with black accents, black with tan accents, etc. I figured as long as they all used them same colors overall, the colors would tie themselves together.
The skin came out a little wonky, but if you've seen my other posts or comments, you'll know that was kind of expected. I'm pretty ass at painting skin tones, and used the orcs as a playground to hone the skill a bit. They still don't look great, but I'm getting better at things like highlighting muscles and shading skin folds and the like.
Anyways, sorry for the giant wall of text. Here's a few glamor shots, featuring my paladin from a few weeks ago.
You looked, didn't you.
This is slightly different than my normal paint jobs. As evidenced by the background of the picture, he was painted using only cheap craft paints (save for the sword and other metallic highlights). The reason for this is that I plan on hosting a Mini Painting Party, where I'll be providing all the supplies needed to paint up some little dudes. I want to do this without breaking the bank, but I also wanted to make sure that the cheap paints weren't going to make the experience unenjoyable. So, I put together the same kit I plan on giving everyone (#0, #1, #2 brushes, a DIY wet palette and some toothpicks) and got to work.
I've got about a dozen of this same mini. I might tweak the color scheme a bit, but the plan is to teach everyone step-by-step how to replicate the above, then bust out the assorted minis once everyone has an idea of what they're doing. Originally, I was going to pull the nice paint out after the first mini, but after seeing how well the cheap stuff held up, I think I'll save the pricey stuff for myself...
That being said, the craft paint worked much better than I was expecting. Part of it is likely due to the experience I've gained since I last used the stuff, but the only time I felt frustrated with the paint was when applying the final wash a good amount of green washed off. This happens to me a lot when applying washes so I think it's more something I'm doing than the paints fault, but it was much worse with this craft paint than the nicer stuff.
Anyways, here's a couple other angles.
This is a work in progress pic of what will eventually be an army of icy blue-gray skinned orcs. I plan on making a range of colors between pure light gray and pure baby blue, and grabbing colors from different parts for each orc so they'll all have different but similar skin tones.
The models are from Valandar's awesome Orc Horde collection on Thingiverse. These models are a ton of fun and a great balance between high-detail and printability/ paintability. I wish the bases were a little more interesting, or printed separately so I could attach my own, but a flat base allows me to add my own terrain later on.
I plan on doing a typical green-skinned orc army, as well as a fire-red army. Orcs are a fun way to play around with different armor color schemes because if something ends up looking like crap you can just say, "they're orcs! They just grabbed what's available!"
This is my friend's character for a campaign that we are in. He used AI to create the general look of his character, then designed a mini based on the outcome. I printed it out for him and used the AI image as a color reference.
Here are a few other angles:
And here is the AI generated image that the mini is based off of:
(The small girl is the character's sister.)
This is my paint job on Yasashii's "Mind Flayer / Illithid Tabletop Miniature" from Thingiverse.
This was one of the first prints off of my resin printer, and the first piece I attempted air brushing; to make both of these a little easier, I scaled him up a bit, so he isn't quite "tabletop minature" scale, but still much smaller than what I'd been used to painting (~70mm tall).
Everything except for the red eyes and purple highlights on the armor was done with a 0.3mm airbrush.
Here are a couple different angles:
Unfortunately one of the robe dangly bits snapped off the back before I could start painting. I didn't expect the paint job to turn out this decent so I didn't bother reprinting, kinda wish I had.
This is a miniature from TitanCraft's "RPG Mini Starter Kit" on thingiverse. I painted him up just to get some practice painting minis as I'm just starting out on the small scale stuff.
Here he is from a couple of different angles:
I wish that the paint on his face came out a little better, it's something I've always struggled with.
I may be preaching to the choir here, but if you haven't already heard of it, check out TitanCraft. It's another mini maker website, but you can actually download minis that you make for free (they have paid and free assets, but there's a ton of free ones and you don't have to pay anything to download an all-free model). I'm not affiliated with them in any way, but I've been showing it to all my DnD friends and a few of them are sending me minis to print out for them, and it costs us nothing but the $0.25 of resin.
I've been resin printing for maybe a month. I've noticed that on all of the resins that I've got, and all of the profiles I've downloaded for them, the lift speed is usually at least 3 to 4 mm. However, when listening to my printer operate, I can tell that it is fully separating the print within the first millimeter or so. I've changed almost all of my resin profiles to only lift 1 mm, cutting each layer time down like 2 seconds, and absolutely zero change in any quality whatsoever. Am I just lucky with my printer configuration, or my fep is especially tight? Or why else would such a large distance be commonly recommended?
I'm dumb and sometimes tell my phone to do things I don't actually want it to do, like hide posts I actually want to check out. I can't find a way to look at those to bring them back.
I've been helping someone diagnose a technical issue through Lemmy PM's the last month or so, and have accumulated a lot of messages back and forth. (Around 130 I'd say.)
When I get a new message, the total number of messages that I've received shows as a notification for a while, until it eventually disappears. (I haven't fully tested it but I think it disappears on reboot once I've replied.) Receiving comment replies or a new pm brings the notification back.
The screenshot shows what I see when filtering for unread messages. Thus, there are no unread messages, let alone 130 of them.
The entire conversation has been had in the same message thread. Not sure if this is a Lemmy issue or boost issue.
Hi all, got a bit of a technical problem I'm trying to solve and I've got very little programming experience.
Basically, I'm trying to create a folder with a bunch of filament profile cfg files, with things like retraction distance, temperature, flow rate etc preloaded into them. That way, I can slice a model for a 0.6mm nozzle, send it to Klipper, and run it with any filament I want without having to re-slice, just change which cfg file is loaded.
This is going pretty well and I've figured out how to get most of what I want into the cfg. However, I want to limit my print speed by my maximum volumetric flow rate, a variable that Klipper does not support (and Kevin has more or less denied requests to have it added). To solve this issue, I want to limit the max speed instead, using a formula like this:
print speed = (max vol. flow) / (nozzle width) / (layer height)
(max vol. flow) and (nozzle width) would be defined manually by me for each profile. The only issue is (layer height), which of course can change from print to print. I know that my slicer puts the layer height and total number of layers in the header of the gcode, I also understand that that's where Klipper gets this info from and how it displays those numbers once you've selected a file. What I'm having trouble figuring out is how I can send that number into the above formula; I found this which seems to be almost what I need, but I can't figure out how to use the "print_stats object" in my cfg.
A potential workaround is to find my maximum layer height for each nozzle/filament combo and set the max speed assuming that later height, but if I'm printing something at say half my maximum layer height that's going to severely unnecessarily reduce my print speed.
Any advice?
When viewing a single child comment thread (ie viewing a response to your comment that is already a few comments deep in a thread), you are given two options at the top of the comment section, one to "view full context" of the thread you're in (expected behavior: give context up to the parent comment and show only comments in that thread) and one to "view full comment section".
As of now, at least for me, both options simply give me one additional parent comment above what I can already see (in my previous example, it would show the comment I originally replied to). To get to the full comment section, I have to press the option and reload the comment section over and over until I get to the parent comment, at which point "view full comment section" actually does what it says.
Hi everyone, a week ago my printer (heavily modified Neptune 3) started randomly shutting down in the middle of prints. I come back to a print with the "Klipper reports: SHUTDOWN / Lost communication with MCU 'mcu'" error message.
The printer has been "under construction" for the last couple of weeks, but it has been in varying states of "working" for most of the time - working well enough for me to print the parts I needed to get it back to "fully operational". During this time, the printer never shut down like it is now.
Only once I started making little cosmetic changes did the problem present itself. I was running a known-good print, and I got the above error twice (first time after ~2 hours, second time after ~1 hour) before I got a successful print off of it. This was last week.
After this successful print, I continued other prints with no issues. After a day or two with no problems, an hour long print threw the error at me four consecutive times between 10-45 minutes into the print. This is when I started looking into my klippy log and found some relevant articles citing things like EMF interference, bad power supplies, faulty cables etc. I realized that one of the changes I had made rerouted the printer USB cable right around the Z-stepper, so I rerouted it to how it was originally and immediately managed a successful print. This was 5 days ago.
After moving that cable I had no issues with printing several-hour long prints... until last night. I had been printing all day, then the problem came back. After one print finished, I queued up another print with a plate full of parts, it failed after 1.5 hours. Tried the same print again, failed in 30 minutes. I re-sliced to only a handful of parts to see if I could get those to print before the error occurs, and it's failing 15 minutes into the print.
The printer power supply is the unit that came with the Neptune, and it isn't powering anything besides stock hardware (exception being the SKR mini board), so I don't think it's that. The pi is on a quality unit. The USB cable has been working for a long time so I also don't suspect that, but I'm probably going to buy a new one today just to be sure. I adjusted my enclosure setup so that the Pi and SKR are able to get cool air (at one point had a personal fan pointing at the open electronics box, still failed).
Here is a link to my most recent klippy log (abridged to the start of the last failed print). I'm not very familiar with reading through this and finding oddities, but I do think it's strange that it seemed to load my preheat script in the middle of printing right before the EOF error. (It should be noted that this preheat script was made 1 or 2 failed prints before this most recent one, so it isn't the source of the error as prints were failing before the script was made). If there's anything I'm missing or something else I can try, please let me know!
Edit: While typing this post, I was running the same failed print without filament and both heaters turned off. It ran for about 45 minutes (most recent failure occurred at 12 minutes) so I cancelled the print and started it again with heaters turned on, still without filament. It again ran for about 45 minutes, so I again cancelled it and started the print again, this time with filament loaded. It failed in 5 minutes.
Edit 2: A test print with heaters on and no filament failed after 1h8m. So it isn't an issue with extruding filament.
Edit 3: New cable with the 5v leads taped off per @SzethFriendOfNimi@lemmy.world's advice. Ran the print without filament until completion. Reloaded the same file with filament, print ran without issue until the 1h14m mark, at which point I tapped my Klipperscreen device to wake up the screen, and as soon as it displayed the status, the printer errored out. This can't be a coincidence, can it? Whenever the print goes unmonitored for a long time, it fails as soon as I do something (load mainsail, turn on the klipperscreen) to check the status of it.
Hi guys, been thinking about this for a couple weeks now but can't seem to find anything online about anyone who has tried it.
I'm considering converting my printer into a voron. However, since I currently have a fully functioning printer, I wondered why I can't print the extrusions rather than purchasing them? Of course they are larger than my printer's volume, but there was this video posted here a while back about a great way to create strong permanent joints for parts just like this:
https://youtu.be/zI8OgRRF5d8
The way I would do this would be to model the extrusions as a solid piece and make cutouts in the areas that bolts are meant to be ran through.
Is this even within the realm of possibility, or is there a specific barrier that has prevented others from trying this? The obvious concern is stability/ rigidity, but if everything is printed at voron part standards or thicker with an infill pattern like gyroid, would the decrease in rigidity be too much for input shaping to compensate for?
Thanks for any ideas or input! If there aren't any major road blocks or examples of this failing I think I'll try it out once I've got the space for it.
Hi guys, it's The Clog Guy, thought I'd try to share something other than problems...
Shortly before my printer went kaput again, I designed and printed a bracket to move my Bowden extruder to the hotend, making my printer a direct drive variant.
This posed an issue: I now needed to feed filament from the top of the printer rather than the side, where I previously mounted my filament holder.
I also have the issue many of you probably do where I am running out of room for my many filament spools.
Enter: The Rod. Two holes on either side of the enclosure, and I can hold probably 8 or so spools within the enclosure.
The Rod slides out on one end to allow for quick spool changes:
And I even had the foresight to put a clamp on one end to prevent it from getting yanked out all the way:
I canabalized the filament guide from the printer to the top of the enclosure with one screw so it would swivel, put those thumb tacks in to keep it from spinning all the way around, and the enclosure is ready to go!
Now if only my printer worked...
Hi guys. Please check my previous post for any background questions, I don't have it in me to go over everything again.
Long story short, I was having issues with clogging that were being caused by my hotend not reaching the reported temp. After a few days of troubleshooting and diagnosing the motherboard and Klipper settings, I gave up and decided the motherboard was faulty (even though I could not perform any tests to determine in) and bought an SKR mini. I got that all set up, and the printer has been working flawlessly since then.
Until now.
Same exact problem; one print goes perfectly fine, next print, failing to extrude by the 4th layer. I removed the clog, restarted the print, now can't even extrude the priming line. Fearing the worst, I disassemble the hotend, try hand feeding filament, and once again I am unable to push more than a few centimeters through before it gets clogged up. A probe thermometer reads ~160C while Klipper reports 200C.
What could possibly be happening here? The board is an aftermarket replacement from a completely different company, so I doubt it's a recurring manufacturer defect, but I have no idea what else can be causing this.
At this point I've spent so much time and money trying to fix this printer that I could almost buy a new one, but at this point I'm not convinced even that would solve the problem.
I couldn't find a great way to describe what I'm seeing. But if you're deep in a comment thread, or viewing a reply to your comment, and have parent comments collapsed, if there are additional comments, choosing to show them adds the number of context indicators (the little lines on the left) that it would have were the parents not hidden.
!Bug
The comment from FlyingSquid was the comment hidden by "show 1 more reply".