Menagerie @ Menagerie @pawb.social

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Joined

3 yr. ago

Sure, here are a few. Znöwhite, Holy Moses, Eudaemon, Acid King, Lucifer, Ruby the Hatchet.

OK, now the picture is showing. I'd consider it a tapered fork, and it looks like it has a removable crown race. The Enve fork should be fine. Make sure to get a good compression plug, and only tighten the stem with a torque wrench so you don't ruin your new fork.

Not sure if you posted a pic or not, I'm not seeing one. A tapered steerer tube transitions from 1 1/8" to 1.5" in the bottom few inches of the steerer tube. Both tapered and straight steerer tubes can be a tiny bit wider at the very bottom inch or so where the crown race is pressed on, or some forks will have a crown race molded into into the bottom of the steerer tube. Either way, measure the diameter of the steerer tube just above the crown race. If it is 28.6mm or 30mm, you have a straight steerer tube. If it is noticeably wider, it is tapered.

The Enve fork has a steerer tube that tapers from 1 1/8" to 1.5". If the fork from your Fuji is tapered the same way, sounds like a match. If your fork has a steerer tube with a constant diameter, then the Enve fork likely won't work. If the fork from your Fuji has an integrated crown race, then you will need to find the right crown race to fit the Enve fork and the headset.

Future Shock is pretty spot on with it's predictions. Reading it convinced me to try and take things slower, and to spend less time on the phone, on the internet, which helped. Then covid came along, and pushed me right back into information overload...

!plural@lemm.ee

If the big squishy one was comfortable, I'd just put it back on and ignore the squeaking from it, and if you start going on rides that are long enough for it to become uncomfortable, then think about swapping it. It takes some time riding for your body to get used to sitting on a saddle, and if your body isn't used to sitting on a saddle, then a hard narrow saddle is going to suck, even if it is otherwise a good fit for your body.

When picking a new saddle, the most important thing is to get something that is the correct width for your sit bones. Many bike shops have devices to measure this. Your position on the bike also influences the type of saddle that will work best for you. If you ride a road bike with a leaned forward, aggressive position, a saddle that is a bit more narrow with less padding can be more comfortable over long distances, as long as it fits your body well. For more upright bikes, a slightly wider saddle with a tiny bit more padding often works better. Saddles with a ton of padding can often be uncomfortable for rides more than a few miles, as they can put pressure on the soft tissue between your sit bones. Finding the right saddle can take a few tries, but it is worth it. Cycling shorts also help a ton.

The saddle in the article is not what I would start with. Designs like this can result in less control of the bike due to the saddle not having a nose. There are a few people who find that a saddle like this works well for them, but there is a reason they are not widely used.

They might all be there inside me, but there definitely is at least one wolf too.

The more you ride a bike up hills, the easier it will start to become. But if it feels like too much of a wall to ride up the hills around you, you could look into swapping out your chainrings or cassette to get lower gearing so the hills aren't as much of a challenge.

There are dozens of us, dozens! All stuck in this body.

Not great. Taking turns being burnt out from fronting, and it looks like we get to live the rest of our lives in fear.

Seeing some activity in this community is nice though.

This is great to hear. Maliit does work, but there is a lot of room for improvement.

Actually, most of the women inside my head look like the middle one.

Winter Cycling Tips:

Studded tires make riding a bicycle on ice much safer. The front one insures you won't fall on your face, the rear one helps give you enough traction to move forward.

Full coverage fenders will keep your bike significantly cleaner, which means it corrode far less. And they keep snow/slush/water from flying up at you too.

Cold drains batteries much quicker. Consider getting a dynamo lighting setup so you don't have to rely on batteries.

Your body generates a significant amount of heat while cycling, so it is best to dress so you will be somewhat cold the first mile or two, then you are more likely to be comfortable for the rest of the ride.

I'd rather imagine a world without monarchs, but with more opossums.

VI comes with a clock up in the corner of the screen so you actually have something tethering you to reality.

Already got plenty of people to talk to in my head, a Wilson wouldn't be necessary. Could make one anyways if there is enough boredom.

A hut sounds more appealing than a cave, but the right cave could make me consider it.

Osees - A Foul Form

Run the Jewels - RTJ4

KGWL - PetroDragonic Apocalypse

Overhaul as in pull the bearings out, clean them with degreaser, then inspect them. If the bearings are not pitted and the retainer isn't bent out of shape, you can reuse them. If they are messed up, they are very cheap to replace, many bike shops will have replacements on hand. Once you have cleaned or gotten new bearings, pack the cups they sit in full of grease, and reassemble. Typically bearing retainers will have a side that is more rounded and a side that is more flat, you usually want to put them into the cup rounded side facing in.

Once you have it back together, you want to adjust it. The goal is to have the bearings be as loose as possible while not having any play in them. You also want to make sure the locknut is tight against the cone.

This page has info that will be useful for the bottom bracket.

Pro-tip: These bikes usually come with little to no grease in the bottom bracket, headset, and front hub. I would recommend overhauling them sooner rather than later if you want the bearings to last.