I'm enjoying Zen, really gets out of your way nicely. Does a bunch of things I used to hack in userChrome.css better, still reasonably secure as best I can tell, it's not librewolf but it's still firefox so I add back the normal privacy add-ons, about:settings etc, but the UX uplift is worth it.
That said, without the firefox base we're all fucked, so this, and their general culture, is really quite disturbing.