Only thing I would change is your Top Z distance on your support settings to 0.265. Perfect setting for supports. Gives it a good interface layer and easy removal after printing.
To your question, I spent some time trying to crack the case myself, and in my own findings, the upper does not have enough room for the required amount of weight needed for reliable cycling at the higher rate of fire. If you could fit enough weight in the upper, theres still no easy way to keep the weight attached to bolt. Theres no hook or clipping point like the CMMG design has. Epoxy was an idea, but there's no way it would hold for any length of time. The trip I designed worked, and I could get some 2-4 round bursts from that alone, but inconsistently. Adding weight was the big issue.
It has been done before, but not without heavy modification/fabrication to the bolt, and my goal was to create a drop-in design with minimal mods needed to the firearm itself. Unfortunately, that's not possible, so I shelved the project. In my opinion, it is not worth it to go to such lengths, when you can build a CMMG kit for less money and and much less effort.
For sure. I'd consider that design out of date at this point. I've learned a lot more CAD since then. That was basically a mish mash of models thrown together. I'll revisit it after the drum is finished. The 15-22 mag I'm almost finished with is a pre-requisite to a redesign of both of those towers I made.
I am. I started having some feeding issues so I've backtracked a bit to diagnose it. I'll probably have to redo the connection point between the tower and drum because something is slightly off enough to cause binding issues. Everything else is done, just need to fugure out that last bit. Magazines are tricky to get right. Drum mags even more so.
Thanks man. For longer barrel lengths you'll definitely need some tungsten. My 16" build has the weight up to 1.7 oz. and it still doesn't run 100%. Also, lubricate generously.
The rear sight on the one you linked is not adjustable for windage and elevation. Only the front. So, as I said, opposite of what I'm going for. The front sight for mine is fixed and the rear will have the adjustability to mimic HKs design.
It's worked well for my prints so far. I'm a bambu user so I'm probably spoiled in that I havent had to delve too deep into many of the settings.