I found a way to keep my chamber temps up for long/big ASA prints
At least so far. The first go round had the nozzle crash into the tree support, resulting in a layer shift. The good news is that the print stayed very firmly stuck to the bed.
I've reset, lowered my extrusion multiplier a smidge, switched to a more traditional support pattern, and am going for it again. Wish me luck!
The printer is a a Voron 2.4 running klipper with a chamber thermistor, controlled bed fans, and an exhaust fan so it will do a decent job regulating it's temperature. The electronics are outside the chamber and there are acrylic panels under the blanket and hoodies. Should it come to it, klipper has thermal runaway protection. There's also a smoke alarm right next to the printer. I suspect this will be a pretty uneventful print.
I let the printer heat soak for an hour and a half before giving it a go and barely cracked 60 °C, so all should be well. This is a Voron, so the electronics are out of the chamber, have a cooling fan, etc.
Other than looking somewhat janky, this isn't that different than the insulated panels I'll be swapping on to replace the current acrylic panels.
I made a sleeve of aluminum foil bubble insulation for mine. I taped it together with aluminum HVAC tape. It makes the enclosure heat up quicker, but I have to run the enclosure fan on longer prints to keep it from getting too hot.
This is basically what I'm planning on doing to make this look a bir nicer in the future. Do you change your bedfan speed via macro or do you only rely on your exhaust fan to regulate the temp?
I'm looking into printing with ASA eventually - have you tried skirts on an ASA print? (Not sure what other slicers call it - it's a wall that is printed around the print to shield drafts)
I don't have an enclosure on my delta so was considering that as an alternative.
Yes, I've done skirts. At a certain print size/aspect ratio it doesn't really matter though - the parts are going to want to warp without a warm enclosure. If you have great first layer adhesion it will just take your build plate with it. You'll find a picture of that happening on this printer if you look through my post history.
Smaller parts in x/y and round corners will help prevent warping.
I printed all the parts for my Voron using an i3 clone under a cardboard box. I doubt that "chamber" got very warm, but it was enough for success.
What's your chamber temp with bed fans like? I just mounted a chamber thermistor (on the floor, I don't feel like running cables through the drag chain right now) that I need to connect but the little thermometer module on my gantry was reading like 58 ish at 100 c bed temp, dropped to 56 ish overnight, was getting 40s before moving them to the front and actually setting up the automation macro for them.
For impromptu insulation, Cardboard works well too, I stick my filament dryer in a box during the winter so it can actually hit the target temps, otherwise it runs forever.
I struggled to hit 60 °C after an hour and a half of heat soak using the filter and two extra bedfans on full blast. This was measured from the toolhead over the center of bed and the nozzle 75mm off the bed. Without the insulation I was in the low 40s.
I don't have enough cardboard to make a cardboard sleeve, but I do have ACM panels I've been meaning to install, along with some of that foil bubble radiant insulation.
I have ACM on mine, definitely recommend, did need to print thicker panel mounts for them though. Those definitely sound like some decent chamber temps, I've had decent enough results in the 40s, I'd be interested to see where ACM + bubble insulation goes.