I'll write what happened in steps as it occurred (the problem starts at steps 4-6, if you want to skip to that):

1. After waking up I noticed my phone was only at 50-something % after charging for 6 hours overnight from 30%. The USB tester it was connected through read constant 1.36A (around 7W). No abnormal heating observed.
2. Assuming this was kept constant, the phone should have received 42Wh overnight. I rebooted the phone, tried charging it turned off, percentage remained the same. "Whatever you say then..."
3. I tried different adapter (Xiaomi). Near-15W for a few seconds, then back to 1.36A. I often see this exact figure, thus I assume the phone learns my charging habits and slows down. I tried changing the time from around 04:30 to 12:30, but this made no difference.
4. I tried the official USB-C PD 66W adapter. Unfortunately, I do not have a USB-C tester, but Ampere app reported >5A and the percentage was indeed going up quickly.
5. I connected it back to the previous adapter, finally getting near-15W at 5V as anticipated.
6. I just put a small fan back on top of the screen (not necessary, but it was on that 66W adapter for a bit before - the cooler the better) as usual and was about to leave it charging, but soon heard a strange notification sound. Upon unlocking I was greeted with the error shown.
7. Glancing at the USB tester, it was erratically jumping between 5V, 6V and 12V, protocol jumping between "Unknown" and QC 2.0.
8. I reconnected it with the same results.
9. I switched to Xiaomi power adapter (the suspicious one being Motorola), no issues observed at first. I assumed power adapter failure.
10. I shortly connected the phone back to the official 66W adapter to asses potential damage. Everything worked.
11. I connected the phone back to the Xiaomi adapter without a USB tester, and once again got the error shown (this time on a different QC-compatible adapter). Re-connecting with a USB tester the issue didn't show up again.

Devices list

Phone

Ulefone Armor 24 (version shipped with Android 14) - 85.14Wh

USB Tester

FNIRSI FNB18

Cables

1. HOCO USB-A (4-pin*) to USB-C data + charging
2. Choetech 240W USB-C to USB-C 2m

Adapters

1. Motorola TurboPower 15W (USB-A)
2. Xiaomi TurboCharge 33W (USB-A*)
3. Ulefone 66W PD (USB-C) - (11V 6A for 66W)

_____________

\* Regarding the 4-pin USB-A: Xiaomi breaks standards by utilizing USB Power Delivery via 5-pin USB-A with their proprietary cable.

_____________

Thanks for any ideas.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/25540635

> Have searched about it on the net and have seen that WPA2/WPA3 is recommended, in the case of older devices n IoT. > I normally use the hotspot to share internet to other devices. They're not too old and I don't use IoT devices. > > Would choosing WPA3 be better/faster for my case? Did not see much info on that or benchmarks about it? > Saw somewhere that WPA3 has more overhead because of greater encryption, but would plain WPA3 be better than the default WPA2/WPA3? > > Thanks in advance

I have recently gotten a hold of some classics again and wanted to look into getting a bit of a better image quality (currently i only have a simple hdmi adapter for them). Looking into upscalers they seem, very very pricey? Is that the norm around these parts? I am not looking for ultra 4k hd fancy stuff, just getting thigns to be a bit sharper and more pleasent to look at.

But stuff like retrotink 5x pro are just as much and more some of these consoles.

Is retrotink the next option for price? It would only be for for a ps2 and a wii

It's finally happened, my OnePlus has been through with me thick and thin, but this is the second time a screen has broken. The first was a major break, this time it's just a row of dead pixels, it was really dim until I did a dead pixel repair program, that seemed to make it worse by unlocking whatever pink hell this is and making it fully kill the line of pixels. IDK. This is a OnePlus 8 pro, the one I got before they killed software support only 3 years in and the last "root friendly" one they made.

Think it's worth it to get another whole screen and attempt a repair? Or rather sell it as is and try to get an upgrade.

End of an era I swear

So I've been getting the occasional BSOD and it recently started getting a bit more frequent, so I decided to run a memtest86 over night to check if it's maybe the RAM causing it. I got 1 error, so then I tested each stick, 1 by 1 (every new stick I would test I also put in a different slot) but I only tested first 3 sticks, thinking that the last one is faulty, since they all passed the test, but yesterday I decided to test the last one as well and that one passed as well. So now I'm confused, not sure what to do... I was running on 3 sticks for 2 days and I didn't get BSOD, but that still means nothing because it was rare occurrence anyways.

Should I test all of the sticks again? Is there a better test I should be using instead?

(RAM is not OC'd btw)

This is one of the longest running problems without a solution i have ever had (it caused me to seek out alternative clients in the first place) Anyway, heres the deal: Youtube doesnt seem to remember my history on any video, heres the things i tried: check of history is in (it is) ad these to ublock origin .video-stats.l.google.com .s.youtube.com disable ublock origin try a different browser ( fresh firefox and two different chromium ones) disable tampermonkey

And today i looked at my history again, and the weirdets thing is it does remember the position and when i open the video from googles watch history, it works, i opened a video normally after that and it worked too

Anyone with any idea what is going on here would be greatly appreciated

My ultimate goal is to install Xubuntu on this computer, but I am stuck.

I cannot find any way to get into the BIOS to change settings, including being able to boot to the USB installer drive.

I have tried F1 held, F1 repeated, Fn+F1 (held/repeated), same with F2, same with F12, same with Del.

I tried telling Windows to boot to UEFI settings, but it reboots directly to windows.

I ended pulling the drive and removing all the partitions, in hopes that then it wouldn't try to boot to Windows anymore. Now it just gives me this: !

Using this menu, I can't boot to USB, nor can I boot to DVD.

I opened it and do not see any jumpers on the visibe side of the motherboard. I also did not see a CMOS battery. There are lots of tiny ribbon cables and the heat sink+fan that I'll have to remove if I need to look on the other side.

What I want most is access the the BIOS / UEFI settings.

If a workaround like installing an OS to the drive using another machine and then putting back in will probably work, then I'll try that, but that will be such a hassle.

This is quite the technical question and I doubt I’ll get an answer on this small community but I’ll try it anyways.

So I’m a very heavy YouTube user and comment multiple times pretty much every day for years. Over years I wondered why I haven’t received notifications when someone replied to my comments and only got notified when someone directly referred to my handle or sometimes when someone liked or a creator hearted my comment (which made my experience on YouTube very lonely since I never got anything back).

Now I figured out I disabled the specific notification setting responsible for comment activity called “Notify me about activity on my comments and posts on other channels” (I must’ve turned this off in the past prolly cause I got too many notifications) and after turning it on I randomly got notified about past comments from me that literally have thousands of likes and hundreds of valuable replies and interactions that I missed out on.

Now I’m wondering if there is any way I can get an overview over all the replies I ever received on my comments because I can’t go through every individual comment I ever posted since they’re way too many.

If there is no direct way maybe there is some script or some trick that can pull all the replies I ever got and maybe see my most liked comments to see all the interactions and comments I missed out on.

I bet there are many people who want to see all the comments they got on their own comments so an answer would be much appreciated.

So I got some water damage on my tablet, the screen was broken since water seeped into the under layers and I had to replace it, I noticed it wasn't letting me draw so I replaced the Wacom ribbon since corrosion had borked the resistance in one of the pins. Now it was working, or so I thought, and finally glued it back together.

As you can see here there's a big sensitivity jump in the middle, and before you suggest it, no I dont use a magnetic case, never have, any ideas? I want suggestions before I go ahead and order the replacement Wacom board, that's my suspected culprit

Hey, I have two laptops & I'd like to get a triple monitor docking station that supports both of them, they are:

MacBook Pro - M3 Max - MacOS Lenovo X1 Carbon - 6th generation - Fedora 41

I got this dock: https://a.co/d/1vaXV11 and have been able to get it working with the MacBook, but my attempts to get it working with the X1 Carbon have been unsuccessful.

I can still return the dock if there are other suggestions? Thanks in advance

I currently have the motherboard of a Dell XPS 8930 in a Thermaltake CTE T500 case with a Corsair CX750M power supply.

The machine complains about a defective power switch cable on boot, because the Thermaltake's power button does not have the special Dell magic - but it had been running fine like that for months.

Recently, however, the machine has been rebooting once or twice a day, most of the time when I am not around - either in the middle of the night, or while I am at work.

I was in front of it once when it happened: The screen turned black for a moment, then the machine booted up. It was as though someone had pressed the reset button. The reset button, by the way is not connected, but the cable is tied away safely, and can definitely not touch any metal parts.

This started right after my UPS died; I had the PC plugged into the wall for a while, and that was when it happened first. It is now plugged into a UPS again, but that did not make a difference.

This far, I've verified that all connectors are firmly seated (including RAM and the video card) and reinstalled the OS. I've visually inspected the motherboard - no bulging capacitors or similarly scary stuff as far as I can tell.

I guess the next step would be to replace the power supply. It is quite new, but I suppose it could have gotten damaged, or just be a lemon.

Any cool ideas for other things I could try before I do this?

I am a back en dev who is terrible at anything frontend. I can not design web pages. I know my stuff in the hosting and back end development though.

Now I have started my own firm for consulting as a dev/ops engineer and would like to serve some sort of company web page.

What I want is very simple. One page. Good looking design. Information about my company and what I do, and a mailto -link for contacting me.

One single simple static web page for this. No fancy scrolling or effects.

How do I go about this? I have tried 11ty, Hugo, WordPress, and simple HTML templates.

I feel like neither of these are the right tool. They are either very complicated, full of features, or they create badly looking web pages.

11ty, Hugo and Jekyll all seem nice and more like what I need, but they are focused towards blogging which does not fit my use case. The templates that look good that I found didn't work and had minimal or no instructions at all about how to get them to work.

What is clear to me is that I have a huge front end shaped gap in my competence that I should work on. Please do not bash me over this.

Now that you understand my situation; What tool or template would you recommend that I use?

I just want a simple good looking landing page with info and a link.

Thank you for any support or advice. I am just tired of failing at something I feel like should be an easy task to manage.

I have this Gigabyte B450M D3SH motherboard running my now ancient AMD Ryzen 2200G with 16 GB RAM. If my memory serves right, it was working as expected with the original BIOS. Since I always like shiny things (software side when free) I went to update the BIOS sometimes a few months ago. Initially I attributed the random changes of boot order to CMOS battery outage and kept postponing the battery change. Recently I finally managed to change the battery but still the problem persists.

I multiboot between various Linux installations and Windows installs. So I use rEFInd as my boot manager. Whenever I set it as boot manager it works for the next reboots until the computer is shutdown. On reboot it takes the Windows bootloader from my second hard drive and boots into it straight away. I thought it might be something to do with secure boot, but even when I have set Fedora as the default boot, it still goes to Windows.

Now the only way I have of booting any other OS is by getting into BIOS.

Is there any fix for this?

I came across this post while searching for a solution and it does not give me much hope - https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabyte/comments/zagupr/my_boot_priority_order_keeps_resetting_itself/jkqpa2p/

What if I flash an older BIOS on this motherboard?

This is an external ssd, so I'm not super worried about things going wrong.

Hello everyone. I have a system with Ryzen 9 7950x, 32GB 6400 mhz DDR5 ram, 1 TB primary SSD where Windows 11 and Linux installed and Gainward RTX 4080 graphics card and Asus Prime X670-P Wifi mobo. I also have 1 TB SSD and 2 TB HDD's mounted. 2-3 months ago, I started to get crashes on my both OS'es. And in time, they got frequent. I bought a brand new SSD for OS installation, after a while it started again. I cannot get any error message on Windows, since BSOD screen just stays for 2-3 seconds and system restarts. After restart, I sometimes get "no Bootable device found" error on boot stage. When the crash happens on Linux, dmesg outputs show something like whole SSD disconnected. It shows I/O messages for root partition as well. I changed primary SSD 1 month ago, errors still persist. Sent mobo to the service, no issues were found. BIOS also updated and reset. When I run PC on live Linux media, I get no issues however. What can I do else? What can cause this issue? Thanks in advance.

When you send a message to someone who has blocked you on iPhone, you get a green bubble. Same as you get when you text an Android user successfully.

I didn't think that was so hard to understand.

It's always eaten at me when I see someone taking a photo of a parking lot sign or some trivial piece of information, saving megabytes of data for a couple of bytes worth of data. However, I find myself guilty of doing this sort of nonsense sometimes as well now. I don't want these photos getting synced to my photo cloud, and I'd prefer it if they were much smaller, lower res photos anyway. Is there a decent app I can open that I can quickly take default low res photos with and keep them separately stored locally without integrating to my photo gallery? Preferably FOSS of course.

Hey All,

I have been using kitty+picom for roughly a year without any issues that weren't self inflicted. This week that may (or may not have changed). When I launched kitty on monday all of my transparency was broken and adjusting the configs did not seem to fix it.

Here is my kitty config (it is just included in the default config): ```

Backgrounds & Foregrounds

foreground #2DE2E6 background #0D0221 selection_foreground #023788 selection_background #EB095C url_color #2SE2E6 background_opacity 0.5

Color Table#

Bright Colors are above

Dark Colors are below

White

color0 #E4F2F8 color8 #C1D7E7

Black

color1 #FF6C11 color9 #FF6000

Red

color2 #EB095C color10 #890A51

Green

color3 #7AF9B8 color11 #52B89C

Yellow

color4 #FEFE60 color12 #F9C80E

Blue

color5 #1A8FFF color13 #023788

Magenta

color6 #FF00FF color14 #F706CF

Cyan

color7 #2DE2E6 color15 #0A8585 ``` Once more, in kitty, this is just included to add my changes.

Here is my picom config: ``` #################################

Transparency / Opacity

#################################

opacity-rule = [ "100:class_g = 'dmenu'", "100:class_g = 'Polybar'", "100:class_g = 'firefox'", "100:class_g = 'thunderbird'", "100:class_g = 'i3lock'", ];

#####################

Rounded Borders

##################### corner-radius = 5.0; round-borders = 1; rounded-corners-exclude = [ "class_g = 'Polybar'", "class_g = 'rofi'", "class_g = 'dmenu'", ]; Here is my loginctl: Since: Thu 2024-10-24 08:58:01 MST; 1h 10min ago State: active Leader: 559 (lightdm) Seat: seat0; vc7 TTY: tty7 Remote: no Service: lightdm Type: x11 Class: user Desktop: i3 Idle: no Unit: session-2.scope ├─ 559 lightdm --session-child 15 22 ├─ 604 i3 -a --restart /run/user/1000/i3/restart-state.604 ├─ 662 /usr/bin/bash ├─ 666 kitty ├─ 680 /usr/bin/bash ├─ 683 kitty ├─ 700 /usr/bin/bash ├─ 704 kitty ├─ 740 /usr/bin/bash ├─ 744 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox ├─ 818 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -parentBuildID 20241014102019 -prefsLen 35353 -p> ├─ 839 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 35353 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─ 865 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 35456 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─ 971 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -parentBuildID 20241014102019 -sandboxingKind 0 > ├─ 982 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36584 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─1064 /usr/bin/bash ├─1074 /usr/lib/thunderbird/thunderbird ├─1172 /usr/lib/thunderbird/thunderbird -contentproc -childID 1 -isForBrowser -prefsLen 12700> ├─1249 /usr/lib/thunderbird/thunderbird -contentproc -childID 2 -isForBrowser -prefsLen 10942> ├─1687 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -parentBuildID 20241014102019 -prefsLen 41611 -p> ├─2496 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36732 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─2624 polybar workBar ├─2625 tee -a /tmp/polybar1.log ├─2626 polybar timeBar ├─2627 tee -a /tmp/polybar2.log ├─2628 polybar statBar ├─2629 tee -a /tmp/polybar3.log ├─3129 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36732 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─5329 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36838 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─5381 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36838 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─5407 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36838 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─5454 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36838 -prefMapSize 25665> ├─5516 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36838 -prefMapSize 25665> └─5562 /usr/lib/firefox/firefox -contentproc -isForBrowser -prefsLen 36838 -prefMapSize 25665> And the output from kitty cat: [0.282] Failed to enable transparency. This happens when your desktop environment does not support compositing. [0.301] [glfw error 65544]: process_desktop_settings: failed with error: [org.freedesktop.DBus.Error.ServiceUnknown] The name is not activatable [0.301] [glfw error 65544]: Notify: Failed to get server capabilities error: [org.freedesktop.DBus.Error.ServiceUnknown] The name is not activatable ```

My dbus may be broken. Though I do not know how to confirm if that is the case. Any help would be appreciated, I have been casually using this for about a year but my knowledge is mid at best. Thank you beforehand, and if this isn't enough info I can get more.

A bit of basic information beforehand that should be relevant:

• OS: Fedora 40 (x86_64)
• Desktop: KDE Plasma 6.1.3 (5.27.x -> current) (Wayland)
• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME X470-PRO
• Primary keyboard: Keychron S1 (tested on stock firmware, Windows layers)

The issue in some more detail: alt-tabbing windows in KDE sometimes leaves behind an alt keypress in the window that was alt-tabbed from that won't go away until alt is registered as pressed again by the window.

This has certainly been an interesting issue that has been a problem for at least a year at this point. I've finally gone in to do basic troubleshooting regarding the issue. I have pretty much ruled out hardware at this point. Originally, I had my primary keyboard plugged into my monitor's USB hub. In testing, I tried another keyboard, migrated the connect to my motherboard rather the monitor's USB hub, and the alternate keyboard plugged into the motherboard. All tests eventually result in the same issue happening over time.

One thing I see as a potential pattern but cannot fully confirm is that it appears these remnants of alt keypresses only show up in XWayland windows, and not native Wayland applications. Applications I have seen it occur in include Minecraft Java Edition, various Proton games, Electron applications that don't enable native Wayland support (e.g. Discord), Steam. This issue also occurs less if I allow XWayland apps to always see modifier keypresses. Though I assume this is more from the tendency to alt-tab back into affected windows, registering another alt keypress.

At this point, I am pretty confident this is software-related, but I cannot find any existing bug reports within the past three years (especially noting any relevant to KDE) that describe this problem. I am unsure of how one would go to debug this category of issue or even find the root cause component that is causing the issue. I am curious if anyone here has also had this irritating quirk occur and/or if you know any workarounds/fixes for this given problem.

As well as all my important stuff in /home, can I transfer over the operating system as well as everything in the root partition? What about the Windows Partition? Thanks in advance.

We are a group of hobbyists managing a mailing list. Mailchimp insists on SMS authentication to login now which has scuppered our plans to spread the workload.

Are there any free / cheap services that would receive a text messages and forward it by email to several people? If not, is there an alternative way to deal with this situation? We’re not necessarily attached to mail chimp but delivery is important.

hi guys!! so i was noticing that my os is full with microsoft garbage that consumes my ram and network speed for nothing!! like shitty edge!! and looked for a solution and i found debloating. but i need to make a backup first in case something goes wrong . local disk is : 237gb - used 133gb = 103gb free i have a 64gb usb i want to make a high compressed backup for everything including my windows 11 is it possible with that 64gb usb? and what software to use pls? pls don't tell using a cloud !! 😓i have a slow internet cuz i live in a rural area. thanks in advance to anyone!

Solution(!) Known issue for some Western digital drives.

https://support-en.sandisk.com/app/answers/detailweb/a_id/51469

Download the dashboard and update the firmware.

Original:

Hello all, Any advice on this would be appreciated.

My brother's build gets the BSOD "Critical Process Died" at random times.

Fresh OS Install I have installed all drivers from MSI B650 -S except for integrated graphics as I have disabled them.

I have stress tested the CPU and GPU and all was good. I run a short ram test and all was good. chkdsk found errors and fixed them. (faulty drive?)

SFC always reports corrupted files even after clean install. (Downloaded new ISO, checked hash)

DISM reports Error: 0x800f081f

I removed the expo profile but the issue persists. Could this be a detached connector? (I do not have physical access to the device.)

Components:

AMD Ryzen 5 7600X

Western Digital SN770

G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 32GB DDR5

MSI Pro B650-S WIFI Be Quiet Pure Power 12 M 850W

4070 Super Gigabyte

Can somebody tell me how to set it up for my new instance? I couldn't find any resources that explain in detail.

I have a full sized HDD in a USB 3 dock, and my power settings inactive timer is set to 300 minutes. This doesn't appear to be applying to the docked HDD, as it spins down in about 5 minutes or less. It takes forever to spin back up when I access it, so how can I change this?

I have an LED light that came with no power supply, only a USB-A connection for power. I had it connected to a wall wart, then this morning i noticed it was noticably dimmer than usual. So i plugged it into my Anker charger and it was bright again.

So i am looking for another wall wart, but is one that is a charger fine? Or do I need to seek out one for power?

Edit fixed the title

I'd like to have each page a 1/4 the size of a regular piece of paper, in a booklet style, printing on the front and back, and have 4 pages per page one side of piece of paper.

That way I can cut the page in half and minimize the amount of paper I use while making a quarter page size booklet I can keep in my pocket.

I got a really weird problem.

Two years ago bought a set of 4x DDR4 3200 16gb each, single sided and placed them in a ryzen 5600 desktop computer, which i almost never turned it off. It worked without issue.

This weekend I wanted to dust off the PC, so I took all the components out, replaced the thermal paste and so on.

Turned on the PC again, worked apparently without issues until after a while Linux was pissed about going out of memory. Out of memory? With 64gb of RAM? I checked with dmidecode -t memory and I saw that a channel was reporting completely empty.

Shut down the PC, reinserted the second channel, rebooted, saw 64gb. One hour later, kernel panic. Rebooted in memtest86+, error in memory. What? Removed one module, error. Removed two modules, no error. Switched the modules, no error. What??

Placed the two modules that are passing the test in another computer, error. Put back in the original computer, pass test. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Now I downclocked from 3200 to 2400 and everything seems working fine.

What could be? Have I been cursed?

After a few reinsertions do the slots degrade to a point that can't sustain 3200 anymore?

After replacing the cpu cooler, we turned the system on with just the psu and hdmi plugged in to see if it works, it did and booted into windows but we had to power it down by holding the off button on the front of the PC to move some cables. After rebooting, the nvme drive is missing from the boot options and won't reappear (with csm enabled or disabled)

G'day,

I decided to put Linux Mint on my laptop without dual booting for a while first. I have come to the realisation that I still need Windows but am having a hard time getting an installation happening. I downloaded the official Windows 11 .iso and created a bootable flash drive in Mint. It works but stops when it asks for drivers. Is this a laptop thing or an Acer thing?

I have an SSD that stopped working on my PC 3 weeks ago, and have become confused after various attempts at troubleshooting.

I have two M.2 SSD slots with a drive in each, and when I swapped them around the faulty drive would not show up but my functional drive would still work fine. In both configurations the drive is not visible in windows via Disk Management or the Device Manager. Having just the faulty drive plugged into my PC simply lead to it booting into BIOS, where it was still undetected. I have attempted both SATA configuration settings from the BIOS, neither of which yield results. There is no visible damage to the drive or my M.2 SSD ports.

However, despite all this, the drive still functions when plugged into my friend's computer.

Would it be possible that the drive or my motherboard somehow received a driver update that made them incompatible? All of my drivers are currently considered up-to date by windows (afaik). I'm not sure what to do given that the drive works on another computer but not my own, but I don't want to risk losing my data.

It is a Western Digital SN580 2TB Solid State Drive, model WDS200T3B0E. My motherboard is a B450 Steel Legend, and the BIOS Version/Date is listed as "P3.40, 2020-06-04"

Any help would be appreciated, and thank you for your time

Hello fellow lemmings!

This is cross posted from pcmasterrace.

I am in need of some advice on how to expand my workstation.

I currently have 2 monitors and 2 laptops with 1 docking station that I switch back and forth between (I do have a second Bluetooth mouse that I connect to the laptop that is not currently connected to the docking station, if I need to).

I would like to have 4 monitors by the upcoming tax season. Also, I would like the option to expand to a total of 3 laptops within a couple years.

I have looked into KVM switches and the only one that I can find for 4 monitors and 2 computers is upwards of $800. Is there a KVM switch out there for 4 monitors and 3 computers, or is this just a pipedream?

What other solutions should I consider? When I expand to 3 computers in the upcoming years, would having 2 workstations be cheaper/more efficient?

I'm trying to use Virtual Desktop with a Quest 3 and want to skip Steam VR wherever humanly possible. Problem is, this isn't possible most of the time because I can't install the Oculus app, which is supposedly required to use the xr runtime and avoid going through Steam.

The oculusSetup.exe installer crashers before showing any UI on my system (Win10 Home x64), making installation impossible. This occurred both before and after upgrading my motherboard, Intel CPU, and ram kit. I've gone through a laundry list of advanced troubleshooting over the past month or so, and I won't get into that here.

Instead, I'm really hoping there is a way to run PCVR games/apps through VD with openxr runtimes that DON'T rely on running SteamVR (for performance/latency reasons), WITHOUT needing to install the actual Oculus app on my PC.

Hi there, I was posting on !fullmoviesonyoutube@lemm.ee for a while, and I'd post links to youtube videos, and it'd automatically make thumbnails so that was cool.

But then "something changed" and it no longer made thumbnails, at least when seen on the web interface. But sometimes it does? The following image shows an example. In the first post, it has no thumbnail but in the second case it does:

!

MY QUESTION: how do make a Lemmy post to a video (especially on youtube) such that the post includes a thumbnail?

• Either automatically-generated, or custom-made by me.
• Preferrably via a computer client rather than phone.

I don't know the problem, but my laptop consistently displays the wrong time. Right now it is telling me that the time in UTC is 2315 when it's actually 1815. The only way for me to get the correct time to show on my laptop is to set my time zone to Hawaii (I live in the central).

Anybody know what the hell is going on?

SOLVED!

I was setting up an alternate NTP client as suggested by @comador@lemmy.world in their response, after trying their other suggestions in order, and the command kept rejecting because the Windows Time Service wasn't running.

So I opened services.msc and sure enough windows time services is set to manual and not running. So I said it to automatic and ran it, restarted the computer for good measure.

And voila, the correct UTC time, the correct local time, everything fixed.

found about this app recently and decided to install it. Not sure what this means but I'm worried because its the SSD my OS is installed on. (all my files are already backed up to backblaze)

EDIT: turns out its my old external hard drive with issues not my ssd. All good! thanks for the help!

Hope this is okay to post here? Not sure which instance i should post it to.

Are these good pcs for classroom use? Basically teachers would just use them for presentations (PowerPoint, Google slides, libreoffice, etc), web browsing, YouTube videos, etc.

Considerations are, speed, ease of use, and future profing.

Anyone have any experience with these machines? Looking at this kind of spec:

https://www.refurbed.ie/p/lenovo-thinkcentre-m920q-tiny/115732/

I'm running Docker on a Linux Mint installation, and I'm able to use mlmym to view various Lemmy instances, but I can't login to my Lemmy account using mlmym. I've entered my credentials, but then it just takes me back to the homepage without logging me in. What am I missing?