I am seriously baffled… that 2 people would think an unwarranted general demand for ID papers without probable cause and then recording the data in a centralised tracking database is not relevant to privacy. How on earth do you arrive at that?
Is it that you don’t care about being physically tracked yourself, and from there conclude it’s not a privacy issue? Do you have something like Snapchat broadcasting your realtime physical location anyway?
I must say it’s alarming how the basic concepts of privacy has gotten lost on the younger generations to such extent. The modern day global concept of privacy is to a very large extent driven by papers being demanded in Germany in the 1940s. If it were not for 1940s Germany, privacy communities in Lemmy very well might not even exist today.
How could this possibly be unrelated to privacy?
They were not just looking at IDs to look for Turks (which IIRC is the reason they are doing it).. they were scanning everyone’s ID into a centralised system to generally track people’s movement -- even IDs issued by neighboring countries.
Privacy is about control. In this case, the privacy invasion reduces freedom of movement (control over your own travel).
Lemmy, where I just posted in !privacy@lemmy.dbzer0.com that German police pulled over the bus I was on to demand everyone’s papers after crossing a Schengen border -- was just removed by the moderator.
I am the source. My bus was pulled over, which never happens when entering other Schengen nations. But if you think I am lying and the bus driver is lying, you can easily search for sources you trust. But you seem confused. You struggle to believe it while at the same time claiming the police are doing their job. Feels like cognitive dissonance. Or is it that you are in disbelief that the police would do their job (as you see it)? A search will help you sort that out. It’s no secret that Germany decided to flip the middle finger to Shengen ~6 months ago.
one of the job of the police supposed to actually check people's ID?
Please read about Shengen.
I suspect all the manual wardens are actually harvesting archive.org then focusing their effort on getting a high search rank. Notice if you expand archive.org’s filters, there is a subject preset for manualzilla and manualzz. So when liberating a manual, it also feeds the baddies. But nothing we can do on that.
I’ll probably change my habits to search archive.org first, before using a web search.
There is now an ocean of protectionist user manual hoarders who fight to get to the top of search rankings that drown out the better sources. Then when you try to get a manual they put you through many JavaScript-proliferated obsticals, captchas, personal info disclosure, if you successfully make it...
There is now an ocean of protectionist user manual hoarders who fight to get to the top of search rankings that drown out the better sources. Then when you try to get a manual they put you through many JavaScript-proliferated obsticals, captchas, personal info disclosure, if you surrender your dignity and self-respect enough to successfully pawn yourself through all that enshitification and you’re lucky enough to reach the right manual in your language, then you often still cannot download the PDF beause the rotten parasites want you to repeat the process every time you need to re-read the manual (under the assumption that you are always online).
But sometimes you can get the PDF. Or maybe you snapshot every page. If you successfully unjail a manual bogarted by the protectionist data abusers, then why stop there? Other people have to deal with that garbage. So why not upload it to the free world, here:
https://archive.org/details/manuals
If you go through some pain to get the manual, surely you will have gratification in putting the manual in the hands of a more respectful custodian.
excerpt from §8(3):
---
> > > access to Repair and Maintenance Information: > >
> > > after a period of two years after the placing on the market of the first unit of a model and until the end of the period mentioned under (1), the manufacturer, importer or authorised representative shall provide access to the household washing machine or household washer-dryer repair and maintenance information to professional repairers in the following conditions: > >
> > > (a) the manufacturer’s, importer’s or authorised representative’s website shall indicate the process for professional repairers to register for access to information; to accept such a request, the manufacturers, importers or authorised representatives may require the professional repairer to demonstrate that: > >
> > > (i) the professional repairer has the technical competence to repair household washing machines and household washer-dryers and complies with the applicable regulations for repairers of electrical equipment in the Member States where it operates. Reference to an official registration system as professional repairer, where such system exists in the Member States concerned, shall be accepted as proof of compliance with this point; > >
> > > (ii) the professional repairer is covered by insurance covering liabilities resulting from its activity regardless of whether this is required by the Member State; > >
> > > … > >
> > > (c) manufacturers, importers or authorised representatives may charge reasonable and proportionate fees for access to the repair and maintenance information or for receiving regular updates. A fee is reasonable if it does not discourage access by failing to take into account the extent to which the professional repairer uses the information; > >
---
Indeed it sucks to not be an insured “professional repairer” in Europe.
Even a pro cannot get access after 10 years. But the manufacturer can of course supply their own repairers forever. So to get my own 15 year old machine fixed, I have to lick the maker’s boots. Seems a bit anti-competitive.
But on the upside from my quick scan of it, I see nothing to stop an amateur repairer from hiring a pro to proxy the docs and nothing to stop a pro from sharing the docs, which can then be liberated on the open web before the 10 year mark.
Parent HTML page:
https://repair.eu/resources/policy-brief-current-state-of-eu-right-to-repair/
With respect to repair information, this is a bit disturbing:
> > > But only for those few products already covered > by repairability requirements under Ecodesign > Regulations. Plus, during the guarantee period, it > is still possible for manufacturers to replace the > product if this is cheaper. > >
I drempt of applying for a job at Beko just to get the training and info at their expense, then quitting on the first day. I think that would be the right level of therapy for me.
Thanks! That helps. This msg brought me to a rar file for a similar machine with the same text as you found. So I was able to see the error code, but clearing it does not work.
Thank you! That is very useful. That document mafia page looks vaguely familiar. I wonder if I saw that at some point and gave up, because I got this just now:
“Cannot contact reCAPTCHA. Check your connection and try again.”
I have little tolerance for any CAPTCHA. Since it seemed relevant and you already confirmed there was a gem in there, I made more effort.. enabled more and more layers of nested JavaScript, turned on images, and got past it.
It’s progress for sure. Holding the 1st auxillary button revealed the error code, which I have attached. Looks like this for anyone else with images disabled (black=unlit):
Ⓞ⚫Ⓞ⚫⚫ Ⓞ⚫⚫⚫
There is still a secret decoding ring missing, but if I can assume that the top row of LEDs are 1’s and 0’s from left to right, I apparently have error code 101 (in binary, which is “5” in decimal):
H5 : PUMP OPEN OR SHORT CIRCUIT
That’s not what I was expecting. I was expecting a tacho failure. The pump spun fine when I hotwired it and the tacho was clearly visibly broken.
The wiring diagram shows that the resistence across the pump should be 75.6 Ω. I measured 141.1 Ω using a crappy pocket multimeter on the PCB side of the wire (so long cable included). That difference seems huge. I’m not sure what to think of this. I don’t think the PCB would be sophisticated enough to measure resistence. So I wonder if I am misinterpreting the error code.
I cannot clear the error code. After displaying the error code, I hold Start/Pause for a few seconds and it gives a quick flash as if to acknowledge that the error should be cleared or that it took an action. But it returns to the same error state anyway.
WMD 26125 T
I managed to get the (useless) user manual (which is not easy for someone who refuses CAPTCHAs and other shenanigans by the user manual mafia cartels). But I could not find any trace of a service manual. The leading “WMD” seems to be significant. It marks the time period. There are many models with that prefix but any service manual for a WMD-prefixed machine might be useful.
Beko’s parent company is “Bionaire”, though I don’t think I’ve seen washing machines branded as Bionaire. I’ve heard Beko rebadges other machines, but I don’t know if my machine has any other underlying or parent brand.
Note from my other thread I spoke to a Beko tech support person who was willing to help. He asked what was wrong and started to speculate on the issue. Then I ran out of phone credit credit and we got cut off. I think he was guessing that the motor was bad, but it actually turned out to be a broken tacho, which I later fixed.
When I called back after fixing the tacho and buying more GSM time, I was hoping to reach the same person but got a useless lazy fucker instead, who could not be bothered to look anything up.
The person I spoke to on my first call put me on hold to go collaborate with a colleague. He was also surprised to be getting a call over a 15 y/o machine, but he did not use that as an excuse for shitty service. He made an effort.
I could keep calling back until I get an answer. But it’s costly in Belgium (15 €c/min). The shitty call I posted the transcript on probably cost me €4-5 and probably ½ of that is the cost of the initial phone navigation and hold time waiting for someone.
Need a website to show good repairability of all machines. Eg iFixit or something to consult before buying any new machine.
I want my money to feed a supplier who supports repair. When a washing machine salesperson is asked: “please show me a machine that comes with a service manual (not just a user manual), wiring diagrams, and please demonstrate for me diagnostic mode on one of these showroom floor models”. Completely fucking stumps them. They cannot handle it. Not a single machine. They look at me like I am crazy for asking. Thus I will not buy a single new machine. From where I sit it’s crazy that they can still sell disposable washing machines in 2025 -- while the EU’s Right-To-Repair law has been tied up in discussion for over 10 years.
Maybe I would buy a 2nd hand machine, if I can verify that leaked repair literature exists first. Which is a problem because the pop-up street market I would buy one from is there for just 1 day. Then next week that day might have different sellers and different models.
I would be interested in trying. Would the serial port that I describe here be the way to dump the f/w?
My laptop docking station has a DB-9 port.
The call was not recorded so this is not an exact transcript. It’s paraphrased from notes:
customer: (explains problem with 15 y.o. machine, that the tacho was repaired, but that the controller still signals that there is a fault and refuses to run any programs). Beko: We can send a technician. customer: I do not want a technician. I have already repaired the tachogenerator myself. The controller board is still erroneously blinking to signal a fault even though the fault was fixed. I just need to know how to reset it. Beko: (instant response) Unplug it for 30 minutes to do a hard reset. customer: That does not work. I unplugged it for days and that makes no difference. Beko: Well that is how you reset a Beko machine. You need a technician. customer: I know that every Beko machine is different. In fact Beko rebrands machines made by other manufacturers. When I look at various videos online, different people show how to reset different Beko models using a special sequence of buttons. Every model has a different sequence of buttons. I need to know what the sequence of buttons is for my specific machine. Beko: I cannot give you that information. You need a technician. customer: I need a /service/ manual. Can you send that to me? Beko: You can find that on the website. customer: There is nothing on the Beko website for my model. Beko: That is because your machine is 15 years old. customer: What does a technician cost? Beko: €200 to show up. customer: So because you will not disclose to me the secret code to reset my machine, I have to hire your technician for €200? Beko: That is your only option. There is nothing else I can do for you. customer: Certainly it is not sensible for me to pay €200 for someone to show up and press the secret sequence of buttons. It would even be cheaper for me to buy a new controller board. Beko: Then you should do that. customer: How much is a controller board? Beko: We do not have spare parts. customer: How is that possible? Beko: We do not carry spare parts for machines older than 10 years. Your machine is fifteeeen years old. Why don’t you just buy a new one? customer: If you send a technician, how would he be able to fix it if there are no parts available? Beko: If he cannot repair it, the price is reduced to €120. customer: My local Media Markt retailer has a service desk who can order spare parts for me for this model. Isn’t it strange that Media Markt can order spare parts for a Beko machine that Beko themselves cannot? Beko: You have a 15 year old machine. We do not keep parts that long. You should order from Media Markt then. me: What controller board can you sell me that is compatible with my model, considering the components are mostly simply 230v anyway? What newer controller board is similar enough to retrofit? Beko: (instant response) Nothing. New models come out constantly. customer: Media Markt does not have a controller board. It’s also unreasonable that I would have to buy a controller board when I just need to know how to reset the controller board that I have. Please tell me how to reset the board for my specific model. You should be able to tell me this over the phone. Beko: You are a consumer. I cannot give you that information. customer: Why not? Beko: It’s Beko protocol. You need a technician. customer: What do I need to do to be recognised as a technician so that you will tell me the reset sequence? Beko: I don’t understand. customer: Your technicians know how to reset the board. How do they know? Beko: They are trained professionals. customer: But the reset code is model-specific. The only way for them to know is to get the information from Beko. So how does Beko determine if someone is a technician to give the technical information? Beko: We hire them. They work for Beko. customer: Not all repair technicians work for Beko. What about independant repair technicians. How do they get the information? Beko: Ask them. Your machine is fiffffteeeeeen years old. You should buy a new machine. customer: Every moving component works. I hotwired the motor and it works fine. I hotwired the pump and it works fine. I hotwired the water inlet valve and it works fine. The only problem is that the controller board thinks there is a fault. And the board itself is most likely fine, it just needs to be reset. It is not sensible to buy a new machine when the PCB just needs to be reset. (crickets) customer: It seems you have no sensible options for me. Good bye (crickets; he waited for me to hang up first to prevent me from getting the customer service survey)
---
The support guy repeated over an over that my machine is 15 years old, as if age alone is cause for dumping a whole washing machine.
A fixed wing prop plane is considerably more complex than a washing machine. Yet they will last 100+ years if properly maintained. Yet not many appliances are as simple as a washing machine. And they are conditioning consumers to believe 15 years is an eternity when pumps, universal commutator motors, and inlet valves are not advancing.
So because the Beko support guy thinks 15 years is old, it’s somehow not sensible to reset the PCB and keep using it.
pic added to the OP
right, that’s why I assumed it’s a serial connection. But what device is meant to connect to it?
it’s probably not something I want to reverse engineer blindly. I was looking to find out if someone knows exactly what device is intended to connect to it and what info it gives. After getting the vague hint that a similar port on my boiler is apparently meant for sending SMSs, I want to know whether this is worth my effort.
I was never able to obtain the service manual ([thread](https://thebrainbin.org/m/fixing@slrpnk.net/t/400861/Struggling-to-get-the-service-manual-for-a-Beko-washing))....
I was never able to obtain the service manual (thread).
When I called them for repair info, they asked me if I was a consumer or a pro repair tech. I find the question disturbing. If I lie then I risk them making assumptions about my tools and perhaps willingness to pay for wiring diagrams and service manuals. They probably assume I would have access to some kind of subscription to a pro repair platform that has that info. So I admitted to being a consumer at the risk of being told “call a pro”. They asked what was wrong with the machine, then I got cut off because I ran out of phone credit (after being on hold for a long time). A glimpse of their answer before the call dropped sounded like incorrect speculation.
Google as a repair gatekeeper
I’ve watched a lot of Youtube videos. Also quite disturbed that Google is the gatekeeper of educational repair videos which it blocks me from saving a local copy of. I can only watch at the public library because I do not have an unlimited connection. So I have to memorize steps or take notes.
I don’t give a shit if Google jails viral cat videos. But Google jails knowledge, and it’s knowledge that ecocide avoidance depends on. Maybe we need some #Greenpeace sponsored peertube instances to become a go-to for repair instructions.
Error codes concealed
One of the youtubers said Beko’s PCB stores the error internally but it will not allow consumers to see the error code. Does anyone see a legit reason for this? Even if they intend to block consumer repair, consumers would still have a legit use for the code -- to have an idea of the cost of a problem before calling out a costly technician. It would also be sensible to to give the code to the technician in advance.
The Youtuber (fuck I hate that term) gave a secret sequence of steps to get the PCB to disclose the error code. The special sequence has no effect on my particular model. Different models have different secret sequences to reach the diagnostic mode, and no youtuber has covered my exact model. Similar models from roughly the same time period are covered in various non-English languages, but when I repeat the motions I do not reach diagnostic mode.
Do I have a serial port?
The PCB has unused pins labeled 5v, TX, RX, 9v 0v. Apparently this is a serial port for an RS232 cable. What info likely comes from it? My boiler PCB has the same thing and in that case there are mere hints in the docs that it is to attach a device that transmits telemetry data over GSM. Would a washing machine have that? Or is it to attach a PC or proprietary device to get detailed telemetry data?
Secret steps to tell the machine that the fault is gone
A youtuber gave the impression that after fixing the problem (whatever it is, I still don’t know), the PCB will still think there is a fault until steps are taken to clear the error. The video ended before he explained how to do that -- although it was not my model and would not have worked for me anyway. But I have to wonder if my problem is merely a false detection of a problem. Or if it’s a real problem that I fix, is it likely that I have track down a special sequence of steps to tell the PCB the fault is fixed?
I think if I could go back in time and mention this experience to Twilight Zone writers in the 1980s, they would simply write this into an episode as-is.
I am trying to understand a machine translation of legal text. The phrase “destination mobilière” is littered throughout the law so much that I cannot get around understanding what it means.
Here is a sample:
La soumission d'une offre de crédit est obligatoire pour un crédit hypothécaire avec une destination immobilière ainsi que pour le crédit hypothécaire avec une destination mobilière qui s'accompagne de la constitution d'une sûreté hypothécaire.
Translation:
The submission of a credit offer is mandatory for a mortgage credit with a real estate destination as well as for the mortgage credit with a mobile destination that is accompanied by the creation of a mortgage security.
When I use reverso.net, “destination mobilière” most commonly translates to “security” -- which seems even more off. The rules surrounding home loans would not likely apply to stocks. And a mortgage tends to only apply to homes in my experience.
So I am wondering if “destination mobilière” is referring to a mobile home (e.g. a home on wheels). It’s mentioned much more than “destination immobilière” in the legal text that it feels off, because mobile homes are much less common than non-movable homes.
(update) This page answers it:
https://www.meilleurtaux.be/pret-hypothecaire/dossier-immobilier/credit-hypothecaire-but-mobilier.html
It’s apparently possible to get a mortgage on things other than homes, and “destination mobilière” refers to anything but a home.
I really wish I could buy a new model control panel and put it on an old model so I can get useable diagnostics. (maybe I can?) Really hard to accept there is a water supply issue. It fills fine and it knows when to stop filling. The pump is fine, and also clear when I drain it and examine behind the drain plug. Surely if there were a water supply issue it would not fill the tub then decide after filling the tub and making some a few short fast spins that there is a water supply issue. I’ll pull out the water filter and see if anything looks sketchy. But I somewhat suspect the speed controller since the tumble (wash) cycle is way too fast.
I wish I had an error code but when it faults out it just gives a non-stop steady blinking LED. No variation that would indicated an error code.
Multimeters can be used to simply find out if a part is working. I recently used it when I lost hot water. By reading the voltage of the flow sensor, it was clear that the flow sensor bad (water running should give voltage X and still water should give voltage Y). I’m not sure how many such opportunities there are with washing machines though.
Thanks for the references. Looks dicey though. I thought maybe this archive might give docs that are close enough to my model, but I could not get past the CAPTCHA. It also looks like a lot of docs on that site are in a cryllic language. But I appreciate your effort nonetheless. If I seem to have no other option I might try to get around the CAPTCHA somehow.
Youtube is also rough going. There seems to be an ocean of useless Beko review videos and not much on repairing. Youtube’s protectionism makes them quite hard to use lately but if I can get past the obsticles I might look for repair videos on machines other than Beko and see if any of them help well enough.
There’s a point where it will be easier to toss the machine and get another but so far I’m trying to resist that.
yeah i tried unplugging from the wall. I don’t know if there is a separate motor controller board or if the motor controller is integrated into the same board with all the controls. I’m not sure how risky it is to replace the main controller board as a guess. I would like some certainty on where the fault is.
And maybe it is the motor. It looks like it spins fine to me, but if it’s at the edge of its life maybe it’s giving feedback to the controller that signals an issue with the motor.
In the case at hand, every function seems to work. When I start a program it starts by pumping water out from the last program. Tub fills with water fine. But at the start of the wash cycle it attempts a high-speed spin with a full tub of water, which seems quite bizarre. Attempting a high-speed spin with water in the tub causes it to jump because of all the weight. It /should/ just slowly rotate in one direction, then the other direction. But instead it does a 2 second spin then pauses for a minute. Then it repeats that 2 second high-speed spin then pauses. After 4 or so repeats of that it quits and leaves a blinking start button.
My first thought was that it detected overloading or an imbalanced load and maybe tried to balance the load. But it does the same thing empty. The belt is fine and the motor is obviously strong enough to make it spin as far as I can tell. But maybe something that controls the motor is broken. I am stuck because I don’t know how to probe the various parts with my multimeter as far as what readings I should look for.
The machine has a spin-only program that should do nothing but spin. When I run that program, it obviously does not add water. It just starts the spin (as expected) but pauses 2 sec after starting to spin.. waits a min, then tries again. It looks like it spins fine but it’s giving up anyway.
Thanks. I had to translate it. It’s a troubleshooting guide for some common issues, but not my issue. I have the user manual for my model which has a troubleshooting table but it is not useful here.
I cannot repair my washing machine without documentation. I have no idea how to use my multimeter to check the components. There are parts dealers for Beko in my area, but none of them have the service manual.
The parts shops all say go to the website for the manual as a flippant off-the-cuff answer. There are no service manuals on the Beko website -- at least not for my model. The navigation of the Beko website does not even have a path to docs. And worse, my model is treated as non-existent by the website.
What would I do if I were a professional repair service? What is the official channel?
I am open to “piracy¹” but it would be a long shot to scour all the dark web for a manual for a specific washing machine. It’s not the type of content people have a strong interest in spreading/trading.
¹As RMS says, it’s not a just and appropriate term for it (but “sharing” is awkward too).
(update) Added frame from Youtube video t1XaUolbjLY which shows that service manuals exist for at least some Beko models. As we can see in the snapshot, Beko wants to restrict who is servicing their machines. (btw the video covers a very different model than mine).
I probably need to find the test mode for my machine, comparable to YT video cq_uSyghZC0.
new problem
The machine reached a new low. Now there actually is a problem with the water valve, it seems. When running a program, it pauses then the start button just blinks. (It previously started by pumping then at least filled the tub). So I followed this video from the 5m10s position. I do not get 220v on either valve. But certainly I can see that 220V is getting to the control panel. So 220v goes into the control panel, but does not make it out of the control panel leads where the water valve connects.
(edit) The water valves themselves are fine (I connected 220v directly to the water valves and water flows). I guess I should suspect the pump now. The pump was actually the very first task back when the machine worked. So I should not have even been looking at the water valves which only start after the initial pumping ends.
It may be difficult or impossible to control food quality well enough that every container be mealworm-free. But I expect metrics to be kept so someone can monitor whether or not a supply chain is doing something notably reckless.
Delhaize history
Delhaize started off as a food producer who was regarded as a brand of high quality products. Then they became a big grocery store chain. So of course they sell their own products. And in fact I have never seen Delhaize products sold by other stores.
. When I tried to return the rooibos, the CSR asked for a receipt. I did not have one, so he refused. I said: look, it’s brand of the store, so of course it came from here. He argued that it may not have come from /this/ precise store.
I don’t give a shit about getting a 2 euro refund. My whole point was to get the incident recorded so they can look into QA issues. So then I reported this to the food safety authority in Belgium. It’s possible they acted on it, but they sent no acknowledgement. Which effectively signals to consumers they are wasting their time by reporting quality issues.
Is this all normal? I would expect a public health agency to be keen to encourage reports of worms packaged in food.
I think the norm is (sadly enough) to use Twitter. Someone tweets “worm in my food” with a good photo, it gets some attention, then the supplier is forced to try to remedy their embarrassment. This hack doesn’t work for non-Twitter non-Facebook users.
(edit) attached a pic
This creepy crawly was found living in a toilet in Brussels. Help me solve the mystery of what it is and how it got there. Is it a parasite? Hookworm, or roundworm? I have not used the toilet for...
This creepy crawly was found living in a rarely used toilet in Brussels.
I was alarmed to find it. Is it a parasite? Hookworm, or roundworm?
Some history:
This is a rarely used part of the house. One day I discovered the toilet bowl was teeming with sewer drain fly larvae. Also creeped me out until I worked out what I was looking at. I’m not bothered about drain flies so I just left it alone. Returned to the toilet a couple months later and the trap was bone-dry. There was a hard blob of something.. mud, limescale, I don’t know. Not sure how it got there. It was the size of a golf ball so more mass than I would expect from limescale. I used a strong acid to descale the toilet. I made the toilet sparkling clean.
Then I used the trap to clean a dread-lock style mop because I could stuff it in there and squeeze out the the grime. And the mop could also reach deeper into the trap to clean the toilet better. Toilet water would become instantly black but easy to flush and repeat. After 10 or so iterations the water was still gray so I gave up.. maybe the mop should be bleached.. so I put the mop away. The mop was previously used to clean up cat urine (neighbors cat keeps entering my house, peeing on the livingroom floor and stairs, then bailing.. does not hang-out [why mark in a territory it does not intend to use?]). Anyway, I did not defecate in the toilet after cleaning it. Maybe urinated a couple times over the span of a couple months.
Then out of the pure blue I find this creepy crawly. Should I bring this thing to a doctor? I cannot work out how it got there or if it came from me. Perhaps equally important are the sand grains (50 or so?) around it.
theory 1: it entered the cistern from the Brussels water supply, perhaps as an egg. Hatched in the cistern. Brussels water contains sand which builds up at the screens of the tap airators and also in the cistern. A typical flush does not bring any noticable sand into the toilet bowl, but maybe if a worm were in the cistern it would have moved the sand around so that a pinch of sand would go in a flush, along with the worm.
theory 2: it came in from the Brussels water supply and ended up in the sewer pipes like most of the water does, grew in the sewer pipes and crawled up into the toilet trap from the sewer side. As it crawled, sand and scum from the sewer pipe stuck to it and washed off it when it entered the trap.
theory 3: it came out of me and ended up in the sewer pipes and crawled into the toilet. No!!! I hope not. But if so, it’s the lower floor toilet that I use, so the worm would have to do a straight up vertical climb 1 story high inside of PVC. Seems unlikely.
theory 4: I leave the window open most of the time and the toilet seat up, so a bird could have flown in and dropped something in the toilet.
They all seem unlikely.