the only screw that touches my hand is the top left one against my pinky and it doesn't bother me.
At first I got a pico and soldered it cause its cheaper then I realized i didn't want to solder on the usb port to get passthrough working so i just got a gp2040ce pcb that comes fully assembled with screw terminals/headers and a usb port already there for passthrough authentication.
I'll probably be following this suggestion I'd love to use a higher tension grommet in my lever but the controller would have to be a lot heavier for it not to be problematic.
yeah I didn't know /c/arcadesticks@lemmy.world existed until somebody cross posted this post there. I want to remake the wrist rest out of wood eventually to add more weight. Your hitbox looks pretty sick!
for sure! I think the captive nut + oversized hole solution is a lot more forgiving and accessible you can buy all the stuff you need from any local store and it doesn't have to fit PERFECTLY cause everything just pulls itself into the right spot based on the lip of the 3d printed parts.
I put the holes in the side to save filament but ended up making a snap in panel for the start/select/home buttons so that was a happy accident. also I have since replaced the arcade stick bolts with button top hex head bolts so they fit better and look nicer and don't feel like hell when you drag your hand across them.
the only screw that touches my hand is the top left one against my pinky and it doesn't bother me.
At first I got a pico and soldered it cause its cheaper then I realized i didn't want to solder on the usb port to get passthrough working so i just got a gp2040ce pcb that comes fully assembled with screw terminals/headers and a usb port already there for passthrough authentication.