I've been running a pixel 5a with GrapheneOS for 1.5 years. I think what surprises me the most is aherence to the moxie school of thought, where everything is completely seamless and easy to run. Everything just "works".
I dislike u/spez as much as the next guy, but man, that's dark.
In NYC, I really like Devocion , and in the Bay Area (Northern California) I really like Chromatic.