That's a great idea. See if you can interact with it at all. Printrun is another option if you don't want to set up Octoprint.
This turned out to be something on my end, but leads to a question about how the behavior of the app should be.
I did some digging, turned out this was due to some certs or something on my home router that didn't like sh.itjust.works. The web interface shows a lemmy.world mirror of the image, but Boost shows the image from the original post on sh.itjust.works.
The question is, should the app be pulling from the original source? If that source instance goes down, Boost won't be able to show it anymore. That seems against the philosophy of the Fediverse (and the actual Lemmy website shows the mirror).
Thanks for checking. I thought maybe it was my choice of theming or some weird state I've confused the app in, so I cleared the data in the app but the problem persists.
There are a lot of posts that don't load the images in the app, but show fine on the lemmy.world website. It's not just limited to the Garfield community. Is this a Lemmy.world issue or Boost?
Depends on where you live. I live in a desert where the humidity is often <10% and have left PETG and PLA rolls out for several weeks at a time with no issues. With nylons I've been a bit more careful, though I'm not sure I need to be.
What kind of climate do you live in?
Prusa machines come with phenomenal support, why not consult them directly?
+1 for Voron. I just finished up mine and am pleased with the results. Totally open source, modifiable, and unlike Prusa machines not based on a 5-year old design. (This is coming from somebody who loves the MK3S+ but was very disappointed with the MK4's marginal improvement and botch-job of a lunch)
That is an incredibly overgeneralized view of the situation. It's precisely this kind of polarization, and viewing everything in terms of black and white, that Putin and allies are reveling in.
Yup, totally. Klicky as a concept is great, but the original design was just bad. The Klicky parts I had were from a PIF provider, so I'm confident it wasn't a bad print job. Maybe Klicky NG fixes the issue, but to me the PCB is worth it.
Thanks!
I have to do a fine babystep here and there, but nothing major. I think it's mostly because I haven't done an actual offset calibration since changing to Klicky PCB, just kind of eyeballed it with a piece of paper.
Do you have the calibrate_z macro?
Edit: Moonraker says I've got 130 hours on it already. More than I thought!
Build process is 99% complete. I taped on the panels initially using painter's tape so I could print the skirts and a few mods in ABS. Several mods are already in place, including Nevermore, panel clips, picam mount, Rock-'n'-roll, and LEDs. I had a TFT50 screen sitting around from a defunct Ender 5 that I swapped with LDO's TFT43.
Also since last time, I changed from Klicky to KlickyPCB. I've had waaaaay more consistent probing with the PCB kit than I ever had with regular Klickym and I highly recommend the PCB version, Maybe a bit of mea culpa, I couldn't for the life of me get the magnets to go flush into the Klicky mount, so there was some wobble that isn't present in the PCB version.
Last thing to do is to close up the electronics with the bottom panel and I'll be ready for a serial number 😁
Nice! I'm looking for a label maker for a similar setup. What do you recommend?
If you have a hardened nozzle and brass brush, it shouldn't be too abrasive. I've usually done that with my MK3S+ and never had issues.
On the cable, have you considered hot glue?
I have not, what a marvelous idea! Thanks!
With regard to Klicky, yup, I can get it to go through the whole QGL/bed mesh/Z-calibration process and get off a print I'd estimate about 50% of the time. It's mostly just consistency. I can probably increase the tolerances in printer.cfg, but I figure the defaults are what they are for a reason. I had trouble with assembling Klicky due to tolerances of the printed parts, and some of my magnets weren't perfectly flush. I suspect (hope) this is causing some wobbles in the probe itself.
Two different problems. First with y endstop, and not really an issue with the endstop, more the cables. They keep wiggling out of the nook you're supposed to stuff them into, and that causes them to get pinched when homing. The cable is just thick enough that it prevents the endstop from triggering.
The other is Klicky, I get wildly different readings to the point where it just gives up because the tolerance was exceeded too many times. I've checked for loose screws, belt tension, etc., can't find anything obvious. I've basically given up on Klicky and ordered a Klicky PCB kit, hopefully that will fix it.
That's my guess with the 3kg, too. Probably need a holder with bearings. I plan on printing this holder (https://www.printables.com/model/513779-voron-horizontal-filament-spool-holder-w-608-beari) because I need something a little more forward based, I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks!
Yup, still much to do on mine too. Bed clips, skirts, fans, led mounts, camera mounts... It's fun to tinker some, but I'll be glad when it's all calibrated and ready to print reliably. I've got some issues here and there with endstops I need to figure out.
It's a Voron 2.4r2! Bed size is 350mm square. I built it from the LDO motors kit. You can find them lots of places. Here's a link to LDO resellers (https://docs.ldomotors.com/voron/LDO_Voron_Distributors). There are other kit options, too, including West3D and Fysetc.
Finished everything up assembly-wise. Still lots of tuning to do, but I'd say this first print looks phenomenal for not having done any tuning other than Klicky+calibrate_z
Thanks! I agree, the wiring actually seems like one of the easiest things.
Thanks for the suggestion. I kind of wondered why they decided to put the split right where the screw makes contact.
Had a few setbacks since last week, including needing to relube the belts with a more appropriate grease. Also, one of the parts for the clockwork 2 was busted. I can't print ABS yet since I don't have an enclosure, so I opted to print the clockwork parts in Fiberlogy PA12+CF15. PA12 is OK according to the Voron print guide so I'm hoping it'll work. My PIF supplier said he'd send me a replacement, so I'll have a spare in case.
Anyhow, everything is belted up, hotend is assembled, and I built my Klicky (that was a huge pain...), so I think I'm ready for electronics 😀
Having a hard time uploading the latest picture, will try again soon.
Also got it belted up, but found out afterwards that I used a grease that is controversial on the rails (superlube with syncolor). It's recommended by LDO and Nero3D uses it in his video, but many folks on the Voron Discourse say it's a no-go. I'd rather not risk it, so I'm uninstalling the rails, cleaning/degreasing them, and reapplying some white lithium grease.
Just installed the bed on my 2.4 last night. Lots to do yet, but it's starting to look like a printer!
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I've got a SodaStream with an adapter to hook it to a 20 lb CO2 tank. Rather than buying the stupid expensive SS drops, I put between 8-12 of drops of these in. They've got a ton of candy flavors and most that I've tried are quite good!
Visualization of 3d printing filament colors. Contribute to dirtdigger/filamentcolors development by creating an account on GitHub.
If you didn't already know of it, filamentcolors.xyz is a website that collects swatches of 3d printing filaments to help people choose colors. They prints swatches of filaments colors, analyse their spectral contents, and create approximate hex values (among other things).
I'm a visual learner and very much wanted an interactive way to view the data. I created a plotly visualization that displays all of the filaments (as of June 16, 2023) in a scatter plot. To access, simply download the html file from github and open in your browser. You can zoom, pan, and rotate using your mouse wheel, right mouse button, and left mouse button, respectively. Hovering over a data point will tell you the filament name/brand, original hex value, rgb values, and hsv values.
I contacted the owner of filamentcolors.xyz before sharing since he technically owns the dataset, and he was OK with me sharing this with the larger community. He even seemed interested in including a widget like this on the site proper, so we might see something like it there, soon.
I hope this is useful to you!
Taken about a month ago. They are quite rare in my area. He must have just been passing through, because we saw him for a day or two and that's it.
Kind of blurry since I had to zoom with my phone. He was chattering up a storm! We also have a feeder made specifically for orioles, but he really digs the hummingbird feeder...
I have some Fiberology PA12+CF15 blend (link) from a long time ago and recently got around to using it. I am amazed to say the least! It prints easier than PETG, even without an enclosure. Only downside is that it is much more expensive per kg, although it is lower density so I don't seem to be going through it as quickly as other filaments.
I recently purchased some PC Blend with CF from Prusa as well. I haven't gotten to print it yet, but I've heard very good things about it, too.
What less common filaments do you fine folks like using?
I didn't purge enough material on some of the colors (white/black to red), but overall I'm happy with the outcome.
Red - Protopasta Opaque Red
Blue - Atomic filament royal blue
White - Atomic filament bright white
Black - Atomic filament jet black