Sorry, I completely didn't read all of your comment. You're right about resistance but then again the filament won't need to touch the enclosing coil at a large surface. In the usual bowden tubes, you have a lot of contact surface between tube and filament but this would not need to be the case in the drying coil. In the end it would all depend on the application. I'm not interested in very high speed printing (yet) because my machines are all pretty slow :).
You "just" need a longer distance inside the drying chamber. This could be achieved by coiling up the space where the filament travels through and guide hot and dry air through that space, ideally from the outlet towards the inlet. That air could maybe be pulled from the hotend cooler.
Argh finally someone tries the obvious solution. I was already considering it but was demotivated since it seemed so obvious and nobody seemed to have done it before.
This device could also probably be printed in PLA. I can't wait until I get my lab power supply so I can give this a try with a wire coil heater.
Edit: you could even mount some PTFE tubing mounted below a heated bed and pass air through it. That way you could potentially get away without a heating element and re-use some power usually lost.
This! The breeder basically keeps two parental lines that they use to make the seeds. Usually they need to do the crossing pollination by hand somehow and make sure that no foreign pollen fertilize the females. There is a great and accessible book about breeding by Carol Deppe if you're interested in breeding plants in generally https://www.chelseagreen.com/product/breed-your-own-vegetable-varieties/
I've also always been wondering about this and other questions before reading that book.
Not only this. It's also old news.
Full agree!! I use the dev version too!
The 1.0 release is around the corner. It's only a matter of a few weeks. It has the toponaming problem fixed and a built in assembly toolbox!
Uhh, many thanks for the diagnostics. Happy to hear about the positive news. Also, it is getting colder and wetter again here :)
Great to hear, I'll become a parent in a few months. It's good to hear about how you feel since I used to feel pretty negative about having kids before we decided to have them.
Very interesting one. Although why not just make a nice template for your projects?
The reason why orchids are so special and rare is that they need the mentioned fungus to feed their children plants. In opposition to most other seeds that come with loads of nutrients stored in the first leaves (cotyledons), orchid seeds are microscopic and don't have any nutrient storage. Only the symbiosis with the fungus makes them able to grow at first.
Search for orchids on iNaturalist.org to see where you can find them near your place.
In general they have three habitats. Wet meadows, dry meadows and woodlands. All these habitats need to be poor in nutrients, so usually they are not close to where industrial agriculture is practised.
Wow, I thought it was a real one at first. Be sure to report it on iNaturalist.org for most scientific benefit.
Unfortunately things are not that easy. At least in western europe, if you let a patch of land sit there for decades, it will eventually turn into a forest. While forests are nice, they are not necessarily the most biodiverse places.
Some regular destruction of plants (mowing, animals grazing, etc) is beneficial for biodiversity.
I kind of agree. I've used blender on and off for at least 15 years now, so I know how to do many things now by heart. But, yeah if you have less experience or use it infrequently, it's tough. The more "recent" releases are more self explanatory though.
There might actually be good freeform tools in FreeCAD that I haven't tried yet.
I've used django CMS for a few projects and I'm quite happy with it. I've been wondering what wagtail has to offer that sets it apart from django CMS. I installed it some time ago but didn't dive very deep.
So what are the strengths and weaknesses of both systems?
After a cold and rainy start of spring, finally the beans are sprouting. We also have a bunch of tomatoes and brassicae.
Let's hope the abundant snails don't take too much.
We got a Tetra hen from a friend who can't keep it anymore yesterday. Fortunately we were looking to get a couple of chickens anyways, so we had purchased a used coop some weeks ago.
To our surprise, our cute new chicken, Clémentine gave us an egg already on the first morning. What a nice surprise.
Don't worry, we won't keep it alone for too long, we're looking to get one or two more friends.
From the article
The great promise of Spritely Goblins is to make networking easier and safer. For the past few years, we've focused on developing a toolkit to facilitate this goal. Today, we're proud to announce an incredibly exciting project that will put this toolkit to the test in the largest real-world deployment of Spritely technology so far: a port of the GNU Shepherd system layer to Guile Goblins — the first step in making Guix the object-capability operating system!
I just got an old Ender 3 for cheap and wanted to replace the crappy extruder with a nicer bowden extruder of my (now) direct drive Kobra Max. When I connect the new stepper, nothing moves. It's a longer stepper and a different manufacturer. Is the wiring different or VREF wrong or are there other reasons why it wouldn't move? The driver is good, since the old stepper is still working.
Thanks for any help!
Hello fellow bike commuters,
I have the impression that my underwear doesn't last as long as it would without me cycling to and from work five times a week. My boxer briefs get holes too quickly between the legs. Since I can't remember a time where I didn't cycle, it's difficult for me to know if this is due to cycling or the normal way for them to die.
Can anyone here tell me about their experience? Is this related to cycling frequently? More importantly, do you know of special cyclist underwear which is not the sporty padded type but something you could wear all day and which would't rip so easily.
Has anyone thought about printing narrower lines in order to get sharper corners? Once Linear advance or Pressure advance is activated, you don't get bulging corners anymore... but can we do better?
Has this been implemented anywhere yet? Does it have a name?
Hey, I've recently designed a Poster about the FHS since I often forget where I should place or find things. Do you have any feedback how to make it better?
Edit: updated with new version
Hey, I've recently designed a Poster about the FHS since I often forget where I should place or find things. Do you have any feedback how to make it better?
Edit: Put up new version
Dark mode
This Halloween I finally realized my dream from years ago, an articulate T-Rex tail. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to also create a mask/ helmet that goes with it. That's gonna be for next time. The thing is modeled in blender and printed in vase mode. The individual pieces have four holes drilled in and are held together by wooden rods. I initially imagined keeping them together with printed buttons but the rod design worked perfectly on a small scale model.
Made a bunch of improvements to where I actually use it to print kid toys. The printing starts slow to help the first layer stick; it speeds up later in the video. I had to dub it over because the original audio recorded by the phone was too hard to understand. Some other videos: The Z mechanism...
This video by dizekat shows a new kind of kinematic system based on string. It should be possible to make very fast but cheap printers like this due to low inertia of the system. Very interesting!
In my last post I described how I mounted the Orbiter v2.0 to a Kobra Max in a makeshift fashion. This time I show you how the finished mounting looks like.
Previous attempts. The ones in white worked but had the extruder dangle, the black ones failed to be mounted for various reasons.
Find the stl and Freecad file here.
I've been looking to switch the bowden extruder for a direct drive type on my Anycubic Kobra Max. I've always hated the blobbing and stringing due to the bowden mechanism. After having received an LDO Orbiter v2.0 today and a bit of tinkering, I now have what I was after :).
The easiest way to install the new extruder was to simply attach it on top of the existing hotend via a small bowden tube and a coupler. I had to design a little adapter flange that attaches to the extruder and accepts a tube coupler. The extruder now dangles in the air. For now this didn't seem to cause any trouble. In the future I might install it using a fixed bracket though.
While I was at it, I also added some additional insulation to the bed (300x300mm in size, so I had to cut a bit). I'm not sure if it really helps a lot but the bed now heats up from 20° to 60° in 3:40 instead of in 4:00. The printer also seems to consume 100mA less (very inaccurate mental averaging of power meter).
Bonus: First functional part printed with new setup, rectifying some of the original parts issues. !
Up next: Get a second Orbiter and have it feed a mixing hotend. My goal is to make nice Lampshades.
A partir du 16 octobre, la plus grande salle d’escalade de bloc de la Grande Région BlocX ouvrira officiellement ses portes à Esch-sur-Alzette. Implantée sur le site historique de l’ancien club estival Wicki Beach, entre la voie ferrée et la carrière Cloos, cette structure impressionnante arbore une...
A new bouldering and parcours gym will open in Esch starting 16th October. Watch a video about it here https://www.rtl.lu/sport/news/a/2124559.html
The animated gif shows how it changes throughout the seasons. Found in the Wikipedia article on athmospheric circulation.
