I've had the same thing. I think orca's retraction test is just too 'easy'. I think the towers are too far apart.

A ghost 👻

I can see a bit about the solid state relay overheating with too much power, but that's not the bed. Have I missed something or have you possibly misread something yourself 🤪

I don't know how small you are thinking, but if it's V0 size, make sure you've seen the "crucible" on 3dprintersforants, it looks cool 😎

I don't think anyone has a v0.2 in this instance 😅 Thanks for going out of your way to answer my question, even though you can't 🤣

I'm wanting it because I realise I do a lot of very small parts and I often want to iterate on them quickly, so a fast bed heat would be quite nice. I currently always heat soak for bed meshes and such, but I haven't found it necessary for prints - they're usually not that big though 🤷‍♂️

Do you know where I can find that documentation on max heating?

Thank you 😁

That's extremely helpful, and I didn't even expect a reply after this time.

How many watts is the heater you are using?

I'm thinking of buying a used 0.2 and I wondered if it might be fun to change to an AC bed. I read the original v0 had one but some kits were using improper solid state relays so they changed it for safety 🧐

I certainly see you the chamber heat argument for ABS 💪

Why do bed slingers heat faster?

💪

You can't trust what you can't see.

This was it! I had my 10-25% (not degrees 😅) overhang speed set not to slow down at all. I now have it set to 30mm/s and I have a perfect result. Thank you 👍😁

Sorry, I didn't follow that. Top layer of what? Not the actual top, top layer right?

You may actually be right even though I thought I had checked this. Orca's overhang speeds are based on overhang percentage and not angle, I previously just looked at the number and assumed it was degrees 🤦‍♂️I will match the speeds for all overhang percentage ranges and see if that solves it 🤞

Thanks. I'll experiment with temperatures first but I've got some different filament on the way too as it happens, so hopefully I'll manage to escape the problem one way or another 😁

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

It starts just underneath actually, but it still could be related 🤔 Maybe I need a test without numbers.

Thanks guys. I will try both and see what works. My layer adhesion is good / parts are strong though.

I was trying to avoid making it more complicated, but I might actually look into this anyway. It seems it might be a more tidy way to install them all together. Thanks 👍

--- Thank you to everyone for replying. I'm pretty satisfied now that there is no trick to prevent grub installing unless an option is given during installation. Maybe in future, more distros will have the option 🤷‍♂️

I thought it was unlikely I'd managed to damage it even before you said that, now I'm sure 😄

Thank you for your kind words. It's back on the road now and just as good, if not slightly better than before the clutch started slipping.

I will watch the fluid level or maybe even bleed it once more then, but it seems it's going to remain a mystery for now anyway.

I really appreciate you going to the trouble to try and help with this. Thank you very much 😁

I left it overnight, and now the gear change is back to normal and I have no idea why 😭

That's a really great way to find the problem, and if it starts happening again I will follow exactly that process 🙏

It may not matter now, but for the sake of completing the picture:

• I did move the gearbox but I also disconnected the linkage beforehand, carefully and gently too.
• It's a bleedable (concentric) slave cylinder which I replaced with the clutch as it has an integrated release bearing. I've now been able to test the clutch properly and it feels excellent 👌

If the problem comes back and I am able to find the cause, I will make sure to report back!

It's a 2013 Dacia sandero II - 1.5DCI