I found the fuse, but it wasn't blown 🥲 I've looked over the board, and watched some repair videos but I haven't found anything. I've called it dead now.
Nope, no signs of life with the battery removed and on wall power only. I believe the battery was not to blame, but something went wrong that caused it to also drain the battery. I will check the battery anyway and report back if I find anything interesting. Thanks for the helpful link.
Ah, I realise my wording was very confusing there. I meant: Because the inductor is NOT the problem - I don't have any idea what the problem is - therefore the LAPTOP is dead (not the inductor)😂
That's a great tip, but unfortunately the power supply is not turning off. I will refer to this next time though 👌
Current passes through it unfortunately, maybe it's possible there is a short between coils though. The inductor doesn't get hot or anything when plugged in.
- I think I've managed to check the battery voltage, and it seems completely dead (mV).
- I can measure 20v on the PCB whe n plugged in.
- No fan, no LEDs, etc with either power source. There might be the slightest electrical squeek from somewhere, I will try and find out what ...
Even if I don't manage to fix it. Thanks for the suggestions 👍
Great advice, but unfortunately I've checked. 20V from the supply (measured on the laptop PCB), everything removed except the ram because I only have one compatible stick - I did swap the slot though.
Thanks. I guess I was just hoping it would be an easy find and fix. The beep confirmed hope is lost 🥲
I tried to start my laptop earlier, only for nothing to happen. It won't start on battery or when plugged in (it can run without a battery when plugged in). The battery does seem to be dead, and so is the 3V CMOS battery.
I opened it up and noticed a circle visable on one of the inductors. Hopefully you can see it in the picture.
Could this be the problem, or is that normal?
Update: I've tested some suggestion and watched some repair videos, but I found nothing. Goodbye old friend 🥲🤚
Thanks for the help guys
Thanks for that. I also didn't know about that shortcut until now. It will be very helpful 👍😁
I can't actually make it copy 😅 I've now also tried in Firefox and Chrome but it still hasn't worked.
Thanks, that's very interesting to know. I assumed it was just a malicious site before.
motorandwheels(dot)com
- I think it would be best if it isn't clickable
I've also noticed, it doesn't always come up but let me know if it does for you.
I just saw this and felt I should share it. I'm sure most people here wouldn't fall for it but it can't hurt to make sure 👍
Edit: I just wanted to add, I have no idea what this tried to copy. I'm using Firefox on Linux which is perhaps why it didn't make it to my clipboard 🤷
You're probably right, I should maybe just buy a cheap one. I wondered if maybe some of them are known to use better components or have less coil whine but I don't think anyone has checked this yet 😅
Thanks for your answer.
Please forgive me, but I strongly believe they are reference cards. I'm referring to the cards built by those different manufacturers, but still using the reference design - all having identical pcbs and coolers - the cards that all look the same, despite having a different brand on the box.
I don't mean the cards that are designed by those manufacturers and look completely different.
Thanks for the great answer 👍😁
Do you consider sapphire to be morally responsible compared to others? Also, I'm curious, is there a case of one being responsible for a drought that you're referring to?
Thanks. I'll consider that. What makes you decide one manufacturer is better than another?
I'm looking at buying a used reference RX 6800.
I notice there are quite a few brands for the reference model (ASUS, MSI, Sapphire, etc) and wondered if any of them use better components for example. I would quite like lower odds of having coil whine if it's related.
Just to explain my choice of card:
- Max 40mm thick
- Supported by Ollama
- No proprietary software when using linux
If they are, is it possible that they can recover or is it too late?
FYI, there are uBlock filters to block most cookie popups - you just have to enable them. From memory, I think they are called annoyances
Thanks. This is useful knowledge 👍👍 As for the fumes I still breathe in ... 😬
I just saw a post complaining about the Mozilla layoffs.
I wanted to point out that the vast majority of their income (over 85% in 2022) is from having Google as the default search engine - Ironically, the anti monopoly lawsuit against Google will end this.
Expect things to get worse.
Please don't assume it was just a cruel choice.
0.2 owners, could you tell me how long your bed takes to heat from room temperature to 60 and 100°C please 😁
Currently, if I add a clip which is taller than the project resolution, kdenlive will scale it down so it's all visible and leave black bars at the side. Is there an option so any extra is just trimmed off instead?
I'm sorry if this is something obvious and I haven't spotted it, I'm a complete novice 😅
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Edit: I think I've found what I need. The transform effect, and then "adjust to original size".
This is all I need but please let me know if there is a way to make this the default for a project 😁
When I do an overhang test, I always have this problem at about 35°. Does anyone have a suggestion what could be causing it?
- Slicer: Orca
- Layer height: 0.2mm
- Infill: 0% (this has improved it a lot, I think the infill was causing bulging)
- Outer walls: 2
- Overhang speed: 10 or 20mm/s (both look the same)
Solution: I mistakenly thought overhang speed in Orca was based on overhang angle, it is percentage instead (which makes much more sense for different layer heights). My 10-25% overhang speed wasn't set to slow down and that must translate to about 35° at 0.2mm layer height. I now have it set to 30mm/s and it now looks great 👍 And sorry, I was wrong when I stated the overhang speed 😅
I use rEFInd as my boot manager and sometimes I like to dual boot a new linux distro (just to try out) which I install with a live USB. Unfortunately, after installing, GRUB has always taken the reigns and it becomes a slight inconvenience to get back to rEFInd every time.
Is there some trick that can request grub not to install?
[What prompted me to ask was I tried KaOS yesterday, and during installation it asked what bootloader i wanted and included the option for 'none'.]
Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I have just changed the clutch and now I am struggling to select gears even when the engine isn't running.
I don't think it's linkage related because it seems to be difficult to select gears just pulling directly on the arms that move the forks too. I don't think I've done anything that should have an effect on the inside of the gearbox, I've removed and refitted the drive shafts and changed the fluid.
Also can anyone confirm my thinking that the clutch and concentric slave cylinder shouldn't be a factor, since the problem exists when the engine isn't running?
Edit: Strangely, after leaving it overnight, gears are selecting perfectly again and I have absolutely no idea why. I didn't change anything 😕
I suppose that should be good news but without knowing what the problem was, I'm not very satisfied. Thank you to everyone for your help.