It could have had that meaning had Dr. Moose not elucidated that he had made a tittie joke.
Good question. Two reasons.
- Weight.
- Not wanting to run the risk of galvanic corrosion between brass and aluminum. My chemistry knowledge is virtually nil, so maybe this is nonsense. But TS10s are nice enough that I don't want to even risk ruining them by doing something that doesn't bring enough value. (Ruining them by trying the MCPCB swap, though, that's a different story 😀 )
Thank you for such a detailed answer! I see on your reddit profile you shared a bunch of very useful posts with detailed photos of TS10 bezel removal and MCPCB removal Should be a breeze after studying that.
![the background blur](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/8a23d953-a4bb-4cad-8f6c-b0ad9a354a19.jpeg?thumbnail=256&format=webp)
![](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/8a23d953-a4bb-4cad-8f6c-b0ad9a354a19.jpeg?thumbnail=1024&format=webp)
Is 3000k in the standard aluminum body possible? Is it possible to then put the standard aluminum TS10's emitters to the brass body?
I like 3000k as a night/bathroom lamp, but brass is quite heavy. It would be great to have 3000k in the standard aluminum body.
The pic shows the furthest I dared to go, which is still just the beginning:)
My limitations are:
- I'm a noob. Never did an emitter swap. Never disassembled a flashlight. Limited experience with a soldering iron from a summer job 15 years ago.
- I don't have a reflow pads nor a hot air gun.
- I only have a soldering iron, so the 4 wires are probably the maximum I can manage. I'm afraid of that too, though.
- IDK how to disassemble the electronics out of the metal head. Is the only way to remove the driver and the emitter PCB to remove the screw and then desolder the 3 wires? Or is the screw enough without any soldering necessary? Did any of you disassemble the TS10 yet?
...
Thank you folks for this amazing community, an oasis of peacefulness. You are such chill friendly folks:) Long time occasional lurker.