As you mentioned, you need the latest Mesa(ATM git master). With that I had no issues.
For ray tracing, the only thing which enables it for me is using the VKD3D_CONFIG=dxr11 environment variable, but it would get so slow in forest and around water that made me disable it.
Flatpak fans will want to check out Warehouse. Warehouse is new GTK4/libadwaita tool that makes it easy to manage Flatpak apps and Flatpak remotes (e.g.,