Finally completed my Explorer Pi V2 build. My primary goals for V2 was to adjust economics to fit my hand, improve build quality while reducing total part count, and to create a better thumb cluster. A lot of these changes trade modularity to achieve these goals, which is not a big loss as I get closer to endgame design.
Thumb cluster was my biggest complaint with the original; being modular made the whole assembly too weak and key spacing to large; not to mention inflating the part count. So I made a one piece design with additional mounting support. Also went with a six key, two row design. Finally I make the switch plate compatible with either MX or Choc switches (and swappable). Used my Enigma Dual Hot Swap pcbs for the thumb cluster keys.
This thumb cluster is probably going to see some future iterations. I've made things fully modular in case I want to swap it out for a new one later.
I've made quite a few changes to the original to arrive at this point including:
adjusted stagger of each column
adjusted splay and height on the pinky columns
used flexible pcbs (from the BigSkree)
made the switch plate one piece per side (orig was individual columns)
added side walls to the switch plate
added additional support to the thumb cluster so it has less wobble
one piece, 6 key thumb cluster
support for both choc and mx switches on thumb cluster
added ARRI locating holes to the 1/4" mounting point
reduced total count of required inserts and screws
reduced diameter of the 1/4" insert hole to better fit the inserts I was able to source
adjusted 1/4" mount location for better center of balance.
While I originally was planning on taking more build photos and putting together a guide for this iteration I had a bit of a lightbulb moment while assembling this for how to improve the entire build dramatically so that going to be a goal for V3 now.
As a slight aside I came up with a pretty good mounting solution for this board. Each half has a stand using these rubber coated magnets, a low profile hawklock and super low small ballhead mounts. With my v2.5 base plate I modified the 1/4" center of balance so that these stands balance well enough on a non magnetic surface to type on. They are also rubber coated so surface damage as well as sliding are minimized. Then for my main setup to make things even more secure I simply place a piece of sheet steel under my desk pad. I'm liking this enough that I'm starting to wonder about the embedding some steel in the desk permanently.
Keycaps:
DES alphas R2-R4
4x DES Thumbs R5x
2x DES R5 1.25u
2x cDES R5x
2x CS 1.25u
2x Gravity 1.25u
Switches:
MX Boba U4
Choc Sunsets
The Boba U4's are the second switch I've tried on here and still not satisfied. Anyone have some good silent tactile switch suggestions?
Thanks! I actually had Shrimp silents on here previously and I prefer them to the U4's. I'm giving these a chance but I think I'll be swapping these U4s back out for the shrimps unless I end up with something else. I'll have to look at the TTC's.
I just finished a MJF Scylla with MX browns and nice nanos, now looking at this I can't help but feel you're loosing a lot of the ergonomics by having them bound so close together?
Shoulder position was a crux of the old non splits but you've chose it again?
Looks like it could be fixed with a longer cable however.
Ulnar deviation is the main ergonomic issue that split keyboards address. You can eliminate this by rotating your splits away from each other so that you don't have any bend in your wrist. Shoulder position doesn't really change much no matter where you position things, only the muscles that are engaged change much and it's actually more work to spread your arms than it is having them point inwards. How common tasks are there that involve working with our hands at shoulder width?
I like how you use low profile keys for first row in thumb clusters, and high for second row. I came up to same idea in my custom build. (But in really awkward way by gluing two keycaps together )