spitfire @ spitfire @lemmy.world

Posts

4

Comments

226

Joined

3 yr. ago

If they don’t have to, they won’t. It’s not like their competitors are any better.

They are at least resellable, which would not be true of pure digital. One could also argue that even regular media don’t always contain all the content needed to run the game (require a download to start it), and are not fit for archival purposes. I agree with other points. To me it’s especially stupid that you have to pay for your storage, and microSD express cards are not cheap (and games are getting pretty big, which is not weird).

No worries. I’ve sent you updated link in another comment.

Here’s another hotend link, the old one was dead indeed: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EQs5RNi You can get very cheap MK8 nozzles for it, or get some better ones too. The hardened steel ones can handle the CF filaments really well, I’ve been using one for over a year now.

Good luck with that, they don’t care too much about respecting OSS licensing either. Aside from that I’m enjoying my K1 - after I’ve modified it ;)

I don’t one why you’re asking me these questions. The link works for me - maybe it’s your adblocker. I believe it was only the extruder that was different. Creality support was pretty bad, but I’ve pressed them to eventually send me replacement parts when I needed them

So is your printer using unicorn nozzles (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EHOujRQ)? I believe K1C and maybe some newer builds of K1/Max came with those. I have switched to CHCB-OT (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EJhmisG) it has a good flow and easy to find nozzles (MK8).

Did you get K1, K1C, K1 max or something else? Can you link to the parts you got/show their photos ?

Also preheating and waiting before bed leveling helps. These beds are wobbly. I’ve put a glass bed on top of the factory one on my K1

Exactly what I’m talking about, this is why I’m using glue. If you’re talking about a textured plate it’s probably PEI

Yeah, I dry my filament (especially PETG) with one of those too. I don’t have to use glue, it just makes PETG easier to remove from the plate. Otherwise it can stick to the plate too well (had a case where I removed the model with some of the PEI coating).

I’m actually using spray glue (3dlac) usually with a textured PEI (rarely a smooth PEI) plate. I’m also using PET/PEO (double sided) plate with PETG (without glue) - adhesion is really good, but not too good (so it’s easy to clean).

3 things that help me with PETG when it comes to separate it from the plate:

1. Glue (yes, really)
2. Cooling it off (sometimes putting the plate with leftovers on the freezer)
3. Olfa scraper (at a right angle to not scratch the plate)

Corp0 speak

I think I was getting Jayo PETG from AliExpress. As for PCTG it was from Rosa3D - you can get it directly from them or through Allegro

I’ve printed a lot of Jayo PETG, and aside from having to dry it before use, it was fine (and very cheap).

Im Poland you can get PETG for <30 zł, PCTG for ~80. PETG-CF for a little bit more than the plain one.

I am aware of that, but usually Jayo branded filament is cheaper ;)

I’ve used both. PCTG is much more expensive than PETG (which is one of the filaments you can get very cheap), and does not offer that much over it. Unless you need something with (very slightly) better impact and temperature resistance PETG is way to go. If you need much better impact/temperature resistance ASA/PA is the way to go. I’m using PETG+CF if I need more durability and temperature resistance than the plain one, but avoid CF for stuff I have to touch a lot.

Eryone and Jayo are pretty good (and cheap) too. I didn’t have issues with Tecbears PLA I got from Amazon